Usubetsu Onsen (薄別温泉)

Introduction: The Secluded Zen Sanctuary of the Jozankei Deep Forest

Tucked away in a narrow, primeval valley just south of the bustling Jozankei resort area, lies the ethereal Usubetsu Onsen (薄別温泉). Often referred to as “Inner Jozankei,” this hot spring enclave is defined by a single, high-end historic ryokan that has stood as a guardian of the forest for generations. For the international traveler seeking a profound “Digital Detox” and an immersion into the high-art of Japanese hospitality, Usubetsu is the ultimate destination. Here, the concrete streets of the city are replaced by towering spruce and maple trees, and the thermal waters—prized for their purity and “beautiful skin” effects—flow silently into stone-carved baths. It is a place where the boundary between architecture and the forest dissolves, offering a restorative sanctuary that captures the sophisticated, quiet soul of Hokkaido’s southern mountains.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Liquid Silk” of the Deep Valley

The water at Usubetsu Onsen is geologically distinct within the Jozankei basin. It is a Sodium-Bicarbonate / Chloride Spring, characterized by its absolute clarity and its notably slippery, “silk-on-skin” texture.
The Beauty Effect: The bicarbonate content acts as a natural exfoliant, gently emulsifying skin oils and dissolving old keratin—this is the definitive “Bijin-no-yu” (Hot Spring of Beauty).
The Sensation: Unlike the heavy iron-scented springs of central Jozankei, Usubetsu’s water is odorless and exceptionally soft. The minerals are used in a 100% natural flow system (Gensen Kakenagashi), ensuring the water is never recycled. The outdoor Rotenburo baths are designed to feel as if they are part of the forest floor, where the sound of the Usubetsu River provides a natural white noise that promotes deep meditation while you soak.

Top Recommended Stay: Jozankei Dai-ichi Hotel Suizantei Club

• Suizantei Club Jozankei (Annex/Usubetsu side): The pinnacle of luxury in the Usubetsu area. This intimate lodge features only a few rooms, each designed with traditional Japanese aesthetic and private in-room onsens. The hospitality is personalized and world-class. It is the premier choice for international couples and travelers who want a secluded, high-end “Inner Jozankei” experience.
• Jozankei Area Ryokans: For those who cannot secure a booking in Usubetsu, staying at the main Jozankei Dai-ichi Hotel Suizantei and taking the private shuttle to the Usubetsu baths for a private session is a popular “luxury day-trip” strategy.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Forest Trails and Dams

Usubetsu Nature Trail: A gentle walking path that follows the river into the virgin forest. In October, the foliage is a brilliant mix of fire-red maples and gold birch trees.
Hoheikyo Dam: A short drive away, this is one of Japan’s most spectacular dams. In autumn, electric hybrid buses take visitors to the top for a panoramic view of the turquoise water and red cliffs.
Hakken-zan (Eight-Sword Mountain): A curiously shaped mountain nearby that offers challenging hiking and incredible views of the Sapporo mountains.

Local Gastronomy: The Art of Kaiseki

Dining in Usubetsu is defined by the high-art “Kaiseki” style.
Tokachi Beef & River Fish: The local ryokans specialize in pairing Hokkaido wagyu with fresh mountain trout caught in the Shiribeshi system.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
For Vegans: Suizantei Club is world-class in its ability to handle dietary restrictions. You must notify them at least 5 days in advance. They can prepare a stunning “Shojin-style” (Zen vegetable) multi-course dinner. For a casual snack, the local Jozankei Onsen Manju (sweet buns) are a traditional post-bath treat (many are vegan, check for honey/egg). We also recommend the local Hokkaido Potatoes steamed with simple sea salt.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Usubetsu” comes from the Ainu word “Ush-pet”, meaning “the river where there are many birch trees.” Historically, this area was a secret healing ground for the Ainu long before the first Wajin settlers arrived in the late 19th century. The onsen became a favorite retreat for high-ranking explorers and writers during the Taisho and Showa eras, who sought inspiration in the absolute quiet of the deep valley. Today, Usubetsu stands as a bastion of “Sophisticated Slow-Travel,” maintaining its exclusivity to protect the spiritual and mineral purity of the forest.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: The luxury lodges in Usubetsu are extremely tattoo-friendly. They are accustomed to international guests, and since most rooms have private onsens, you can soak without any concerns. For the communal tubs, discretion is appreciated.
• Connectivity: High-speed Wi-Fi is standard in all rooms. However, mobile signal can be spotty in the deepest parts of the forest trail. Download your maps before leaving central Sapporo.
• Cashless & Payments: All major credit cards, Apple Pay, and Google Pay are accepted. This is a high-end resort area, so modern payment systems are the norm.
• Rental Car Advice: A 4WD vehicle is mandatory in winter. The road from Sapporo (Route 230) is well-plowed, but the final access roads to Usubetsu can be steep and snowy. Use the Mapcode for precise navigation to the hidden gates.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Usubetsu Onsen launched the “Zen Forest Immersion” program, providing guests with personal forest bathing guides and specialized yoga mats for outdoor meditation. For the 2026 season, a new “Eco-Shuttle” system will connect the Usubetsu area with the Hoheikyo Dam to reduce traffic in the national park.

Safety & Manners

In the communal baths, privacy and silence are the highest priorities. Avoid loud conversations. Always dry your body thoroughly before entering the locker room. Be “Bear Aware”—carry a bear bell if you are hiking the Usubetsu trails alone. Finally, respect the quiet of the forest; Usubetsu is a sanctuary where the only sound should be the river and the wind.