Tendo Onsen (天童温泉)

Tendo Onsen: The “Shogi Paradise” and the Silky Healing of the Murayama Basin

Located in the heart of Yamagata Prefecture, Tendo Onsen (天童温泉) is a destination where intellectual tradition and mineral luxury are perfectly intertwined. Tendo is world-famous as the “Town of Shogi” (Japanese chess), producing over 95% of the nation’s game pieces. The hot springs themselves date back to 1911, when thermal waters were discovered bubbling up from a local rice field. For the international traveler, Tendo serves as a sophisticated gateway: it combines modern urban convenience with a profound respect for samurai-era craftsmanship. Whether you are strolling across bridges named after Shogi ranks or soaking in “Beautiful Skin Waters” while watching the cherry blossoms of Mt. Maizuru, Tendo offers a uniquely cerebral and sensory thermal experience.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Sodium-Calcium” Beauty Shield

The waters of Tendo Onsen are geologically prized for their soft, silky texture. Classified as Sodium-Calcium Sulfate Springs, they are known locally as “The Bath of Restoration.”
The Skin-Tone Effect: The sulfate ions combined with a mild alkalinity promote the removal of dead skin cells and deep hydration, often resulting in a noticeably smoother skin tone after just one soak.
Cardiovascular Support: Balneologically, these “Gypsum Springs” are believed to dilate peripheral blood vessels, aiding blood circulation and potentially lowering blood pressure—hence the nickname “Spring for Strokes” (recovery).
The flagship Tendo Hotel features an open-air bath called Takimi Roten, which overlooks a garden waterfall, providing a high-oxygen environment that resets the nervous system while you soak.

Top 5 Recommended Stays

• Tendo Hotel (天童ホテル): The premier large-scale resort. It features the largest communal bath in the area and is exceptionally tattoo-friendly (tattoos are welcomed in public baths). Perfect for families and groups.
• Hohoemino Kuyufu Tsuruya (つるや): A boutique inn featuring tatami flooring throughout the entire building, including the bathing areas. They offer rooms with private open-air baths, ideal for those seeking total seclusion.
• Ichiraku Tendo Spa & Brewery (湯坊いらぐ): A unique “All-Inclusive” experience. This ryokan houses its own craft brewery, allowing guests to enjoy original Tendo beers after their soak.
• Takinoyu Hotel: Focused on “Harmonious Luxury.” It is famous for hosting national Shogi title matches and offering a “Universal Design” accessible room with a private hot spring.
• Tendoso: A high-end, Sukiya-zukuri style retreat with only 11 rooms, each featuring its own hot spring. Recommended for luxury travelers seeking the peak of Yamagata hospitality.[2, 3]

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Human Shogi and Cherry Peaks

Mt. Maizuru (Tendo Park): The spiritual heart of the city. Every April, it hosts the world-famous Ningen Shogi (Human Shogi) festival, where people dressed in samurai armor act as living chess pieces on a giant board.
Tendo Shogi Museum: Located inside the JR Tendo Station building. See the evolution of the Hidariuma (Left-facing Horse) charm and the intricate carving techniques of local masters.
Kuratsu River Weeping Cherries: A 1.4 km stretch of illuminated cherry trees along the riverbanks, creating a magical atmosphere during the spring evenings.
Yamadera (Risshaku-ji Temple): Just 15 minutes away by car. Climb the 1,015 steps to the “Temple in the Sky” for the most iconic view in Tohoku.

Local Gastronomy & Souvenirs: Wagyu and Shogi Sweets

Food in Tendo is defined by the fertile Murayama basin and the high-sugar fruit orchards.
Yamagata Beef: High-end local Wagyu served as Shabu-shabu or steak in Tendo ryokans.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
For Vegans: Tendo is famous for its Shogi-piece Pasta (shaped like game pieces) and local Grapes/Cherries. At Sakaeya Hotel, they have successfully provided 100% vegan breakfasts upon request.[3] The local Yamagata Soba is naturally plant-based—request “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish broth) and enjoy it with salt or simple soy sauce at the Toyokocho night market stalls.

Cultural & Historical Context

The production of Shogi pieces in Tendo began as a Samurai Survival Strategy in the 19th century. Facing financial ruin, the Tendo-Oda clan encouraged their warriors to carve pieces as a side-job, arguing that the game’s tactical nature was a fitting pursuit for the warrior class. The Hidariuma (Left horse) symbol is considered a supreme luck charm: “uma” reversed is “mau” (to dance), a sign of celebration and prosperity.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Tendo is a progressive leader in tattoo acceptance. Tendo Hotel explicitly allows tattooed guests in public baths. For total privacy, Tsuruya and Takinoyu offer private “Kashikiri” baths for around 2,000 JPY per session.
• Connectivity: Free high-speed Wi-Fi is standard in all major Tendo ryokans and at the “Traveler’s Lounge” near the station.
• Cash & Payments: Major hotels accept credit cards. However, the 100 JPY shuttle bus to Mt. Maizuru and smaller Shogi craft shops are strictly cash-only (JPY).
• Language: The Tendo Traveler’s Lounge provides excellent English-speaking support and guided tours.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

The 2025 Human Shogi Festival is scheduled for **April 12-13**. For the 2026 season, Tendo is launching the **”Ginzan Onsen Magical Night Tour,”** a special bus service that takes guests from Tendo directly to the night-lit Ginzan Onsen with a guaranteed entry pass.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always rinse your body before entering the tub. Because the water is clear, it can be easy to misjudge the depth of the steps—walk slowly. Tendo is a “Kurort” (healing forest) destination; when walking the mountain trails, **stay on the marked paths** to preserve the delicate forest floor and avoid getting disoriented after sunset.