Tsurunoyu Onsen (鶴の湯温泉)

Introduction: The Ancient Samurai Sanctuary and the Most Iconic “Hitou” in Japan

Deep within the primeval beech forests of the Towada-Hachimantai National Park, at the foot of Mt. Nyuto, lies Tsurunoyu Onsen (鶴の湯温泉). Established in the early 17th century, it is the oldest and most historically significant of the seven inns that make up the Nyuto Onsen-kyo. Famous for its iconic thatched-roof “Honjin” (samurai guardhouses) and its massive, milky-white outdoor baths, Tsurunoyu is the definitive image of the “Hidden Hot Spring” (Hitou) in the global imagination. For the international traveler, Tsurunoyu Onsen offers a profound sensory journey: soaking in opaque sulfur waters while surrounded by silent, three-meter-high snow walls, staying in a building where the Satake samurai lords once rested, and breathing in the woodsmoke of the traditional Irori hearths. It is a place of absolute historical weight, geological intensity, and a restorative warmth that captures the heroic, unpolished soul of the Akita frontier.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The Four Faces of the Samurai Spring

Tsurunoyu is geologically unique because it taps into four distinct mineral veins within its own small grounds, each named for its color or character:
1. Shiroyu (White Spring): An acidic sulfur spring, famous for its opaque milky-white appearance. It acts as a natural chemical peel and is the primary source for the iconic outdoor mixed bath.
2. Kuroyu (Black Spring): High in Sodium-Chloride and Bicarbonate, excellent for warming the body core and soothing the nervous system.
3. Nakanoyu (Middle Spring): A balanced minerals spring used primarily for the indoor tubs.
4. Takinoyu (Waterfall Spring): Rich in Iron, promoting blood circulation.
The flagship experience is the Large Mixed-Gender Rotenburo. The water is so opaque that it provides natural privacy once you are submerged. Soaking here in winter, as the steam rises against the black-timbered samurai buildings and the snow piles higher than your head, is a spiritual experience of the highest order. The high mineral density ensures your core body temperature stays elevated for hours after you dry off.

Top Recommended Stays at Tsurunoyu

• Tsurunoyu Onsen – Honjin (鶴の湯温泉 本陣): The most coveted rooms in Japan. These original 17th-century buildings feature thatched roofs and private Irori hearths where your dinner is slow-cooked over charcoal. **Note:** Booking requires a telephone call 6 months in advance; it is often fully booked. It is the premier choice for history buffs.
• Tsurunoyu – Shin-Honjin & East Wing: More modern reconstructions that provide basic electricity and better insulation while maintaining the traditional wooden aesthetic. Ideal for families and those seeking more comfort.
• Tsurunoyu Yamanoyado (Annex): Located 1.5km away in a separate forest clearing. This is a boutique version of the main inn, designed like a traditional farmhouse. It offers private Western-style toilets and more modern amenities. Guests here have free shuttle access to the main Tsurunoyu baths.
• Tazawako City Hotels: Many travelers stay near the Shinkansen station and visit Tsurunoyu as a day-trip destination for its historic atmosphere.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Blue Lakes and Craters

Lake Tazawa (Tazawako): A 30-minute drive away. Japan’s deepest lake (423.4m), famous for its sapphire-blue water and the golden statue of Princess Tatsuko.
Mt. Akita-Komagatake: A world-class hiking destination. Shuttles from the “Alpa Komakusa” rest area (near the onsen entrance) take you to the 8th station for panoramic alpine views in summer.
Alpa Komakusa: A high-altitude rest house and onsen museum located 15 minutes away, offering great day-trip baths and deep context on the region’s volcanic history.

Local Gastronomy: The Power of the Mountain Yam

Food at Tsurunoyu is honest, rustic, and deeply tied to the “Matagi” (hunter) heritage.
Yamanokimo-nabe (Mountain Yam Hot Pot): The signature dish. Grated local mountain yams are dropped into a savory miso broth with local pork and vegetables. It is the ultimate cold-weather recovery meal.
Iwana-no-shioyaki: Mountain trout caught in the sub-alpine streams and salt-grilled over the Irori charcoal.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
For Vegans: This area is a leader in Soy and Mountain Vegetable (Sansai) production. At Tsurunoyu, the traditional diet is naturally vegetable-heavy. Specify “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish dashi) at least 10 days in advance. The local “Nyuto Tofu” is famous for its dense texture. We recommend buying the local “Iburi-gakko” (Smoked Pickles)—a 100% vegan specialty with a deep, smoky flavor found at the station shops.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Tsurunoyu” comes from a legend dating to 1638, when a local hunter noticed a crane healing its leg in the steaming marshes. The inn became the exclusive retreat for the Satake samurai lords of the Akita domain. The architecture of the “Honjin” remains the most authentic representation of 17th-century northern Japan. Today, Tsurunoyu stands as a global symbol of “Environmental and Cultural Resilience”—a place that resists modern commercialization (no TVs in most rooms!) to protect the mineral and spiritual purity of the forest.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Mixed Bathing (Konyoku): The iconic outdoor bath is traditionally mixed-gender. The milky water provides privacy, and many international guests wear towels or “Yu-ami-gi” (bathing wraps) which are permitted for women here. There is also a dedicated female-only outdoor bath with a spectacular view.
• Booking Challenges: Tsurunoyu is extremely popular. Online booking is limited. If you cannot secure a room at the main inn, Yamanoyado is often easier to book via travel agents.
• Connectivity: Zero mobile signal inside the valley. High-speed Wi-Fi is available in the lobby, but guest rooms are “Analog Zones.” Prepare for a profound “Digital Detox.”
• Silver Jewelry Warning: The extreme sulfur will turn silver jewelry black instantly. Remove all rings and necklaces before entering the water.
• Cash Only: Most facilities in the high valley are strictly cash-only (JPY). Withdraw sufficient funds in central Tazawako before heading up.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Tsurunoyu Onsen launched the “Matagi Heritage Walk,” a guided tour through the forest led by local hunters followed by a private Irori breakfast. For the 2026 season, the inn is upgrading its “Star-gazing Deck” at the annex to take advantage of the region’s zero light pollution.

Safety & Manners

In the sulfur baths, always wash your body thoroughly before entering the communal tub. Maintain a respectful distance from other bathers in the mixed bath—photography is strictly prohibited. Be “Bear Aware”—carry a bear bell if you are hiking the forest trails in autumn. Finally, respect the quiet; many guests stay here for the silence of the forest, so keep noise levels to a minimum after 9:00 PM.