Yuzukami Onsen (湯津上温泉)

Introduction: The Hilltop Sanctuary of the Tengu Kingdom

In the quiet, agricultural frontier of eastern Otawara, perched upon a scenic hilltop known as “Yukemuri Fureai-no-Oka,” lies Yuzukami Onsen (湯津上温泉). This destination is defined by its wide-open skies and the whimsical spirit of the “Tengu”—the long-nosed mountain goblins of Japanese folklore. Centered around the Yasuragi-no-Yu (The Bath of Peace), Yuzukami is an authentic “Satoyama” retreat that remains untouched by large-scale commercialism. For the international traveler, Yuzukami offers a profound sense of place. It is a location where you can soak in high-alkalinity waters that soften the skin like lotion, gaze at the panoramic “Three Peaks” of Nikko, Nasu, and Takahara, and explore some of Japan’s most beautiful ancient burial mounds (Kofun). Yuzukami is a sanctuary of rural pride and biological rejuvenation in a landscape that feels like a forgotten chapter of Japan.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Smooth Silk” of pH 9.1

The water at Yuzukami Onsen is geologically prized for its **High Alkalinity (pH 9.1)** and its specific mineral synergy.
The Saponification Effect: With a pH over 9.0, the water acts as a gentle natural surfactant. Upon immersion, you will feel your skin become “slippery” or “thick”—this is the water cleaning your pores and removing dead skin cells to reveal a soft, youthful layer underneath.
The Mineral Balance: As a **Sulfate-Chloride Spring**, it provides a dual-action therapeutic effect: sulfate ions help maintain skin elasticity, while chloride ions form a “Salt Veil” that traps moisture and keeps the body warm for hours after your soak.[21, 26, 23]
The facility at Yasuragi-no-Yu features a unique rock-built *Rotenburo* where the water flows from a specialized “Tengu” spout, allowing you to enjoy the restorative minerals while taking in a 180-degree view of the Nikkō Mountain Range.

Top Recommended Stays & Bases

• Yasuragi-no-Yu Cabins (やすらぎの湯 キャビン): The best choice for groups and families. These are independent wooden cottages that allow you to stay right on the hillside with full onsen access and BBQ facilities. Prices range from 15,000 to 25,000 JPY per cabin.[27, 24]
• Hotel Mokuren (農業体験型民宿): A highly-rated Agricultural Guesthouse nearby. It is perfect for international visitors who want to try harvesting vegetables and experience genuine Japanese farm life while staying near the hot springs.
• Nasu Sports Park (那須スポーツパーク): A specialized lodging for active travelers, featuring professional-grade sports facilities and its own dedicated hot spring source.[28, 29]
• Hotel Ryujoen (Nearby): Located 20 minutes away, this 4.7-star rated hotel serves as a luxury base for exploring the wider Yuzukami and Otawara area.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Samurai Tombs and Ancient Skies

Samurai-zuka Kofun (侍塚古墳): Recognized as “The Most Beautiful Kofun in Japan,” this 1,600-year-old burial mound was famously excavated under the orders of **Tokugawa Mitsukuni** (Mito Komon). The surrounding area is beautifully maintained with ancient pine trees.
Nasu Fudoki-no-oka Museum: A world-class museum showcasing the archaeological treasures of the Yuzukami district, including artifacts from the ancient “Tosando” highway.
Nakagawa Aquatic Park: Located just 5 minutes away, this is Japan’s premier freshwater aquarium, perfect for families to learn about the ecology of the Nakagawa river.

Local Gastronomy: The Kingdom of Ayu and Yuzukami Udon

Food in Yuzukami is defined by the purity of the river and the fertility of the hilltop farms.
Salt-Grilled Ayu: Fresh sweetfish from the Nakagawa River, grilled over charcoal—a staple dish available in the onsen center’s restaurant.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Bistro Pere de Beaute: Located nearby, this is a stylish restaurant operated by a local social support group. They offer vegetable-focused pasta sets and fresh salads.
Nasu Farm Village: A stunning, hilly horse ranch nearby that serves **All-Vegan Curry** and organic pasta using morning-picked vegetables.
Vegan Tip: At the Yasuragi-no-Yu market, buy the local **”Tochigi-no-Hoshi”** rice—a premium grain used in the Imperial Coronation—and enjoy it with local grilled vegetables.

Cultural & Historical Context: The Tengu Legacy

The name “Yuzukami” refers to the “Hot Springs and Holy Fields.” Historically, this area was the domain of the Yuzukami clan during the Heian period. The town celebrates its identity through the **Tengu Kingdom** motif, viewing the hot springs as a source of “Mystical Power” (Kaji) given by the mountain spirits.[25, 23] This spirit of protection is felt in the humble, honest hospitality of the local staff who view every guest as a traveler on a journey of health.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Yasuragi-no-Yu generally maintains a **No Tattoos** policy in the communal public bathhouse.[30] However, for tattooed international guests staying in the **Private Cabins**, there are no restrictions within your own living space.
• Connectivity: Free Wi-Fi is available in the main hall of Yasuragi-no-Yu, but mobile reception can be weak in the lower Kofun valleys. Download your maps before leaving the hilltop.[31]
• Cash & Payments: Entry fees and cabin rentals are **Strictly Cash Only**. While large Otawara hotels accept cards, carry JPY for the local farm market and museums.[32]

2025-2026 Latest Updates

Tengu Kingdom Festival 2025: Confirmed for **October 26, 2025**, featuring the “Orion Sentai LRT” hero show and local food stalls at the Aquatic Park.
Kofun Night Walk 2026: Starting in Spring 2026, guided night walks will allow guests to view the illuminated Samurai-zuka tombs after their onsen soak.[33]

Safety & Manners

Bathing Rule: Unlike many tourist spas, Yuzukami is a local favorite. **Greet the locals** with a simple “Konnichiwa” in the bath to foster a friendly atmosphere.
Winter Driving: The road to the hilltop facility can be **very slippery** between December and February. Ensure your rental car has studless snow tires.[34, 35]