Sukawa Onsen (須川温泉)

Sukawa Onsen: The High-Altitude Emerald of Mount Kurikoma

For those who seek the true boundary between heaven and earth, Sukawa Onsen offers a profound sensory experience. Perched at an altitude of 1,126 meters on the slopes of Mt. Kurikoma, this hot spring is legendary for its massive volume of water—pumping out 6,000 liters per minute from a single source. The landscape here is defined by “The Grand Steam,” where milky-blue water flows like a river through alpine marshes. For the international traveler, Sukawa is the ultimate “Toji” (therapeutic healing) retreat, where the thin mountain air and the high acidity of the water combine to create a detoxification ritual like no other in Japan.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: Acidic Power and Volcanic Mist

The chemistry of Sukawa Onsen is among the most aggressive and therapeutic in the world. It is a Strongly Acidic Sulfur Spring with a $text{pH}$ level of approximately $2.0$. To put this in perspective, the water is acidic enough to dissolve a piece of metal over time, yet for the human body, it acts as a powerful antimicrobial agent.

The Peeling Effect: The high acidity acts as a deep chemical peel, removing dead skin cells and stimulating the growth of new, vibrant skin.
The “Sainokawara” Experience: Just behind the main lodge lies a natural field of steaming ponds and sulfur vents. Walking through this “Valley of Souls” before entering the open-air Oinosho-no-yu bath is a ritual that has been practiced for over 300 years. The water is a striking milky emerald color, changing slightly depending on the barometric pressure and sunlight.

Top 5 Recommended Stays & Bases

• Sukawa Mountain Lodge: The definitive choice for staying on the border. It offers traditional Toji-style rooms for long stays and modern rooms for tourists. Their open-air bath overlooking the alpine landscape is world-famous.
• Kurikoma Sanso: Located just a few minutes away on the Akita side, this facility offers a more modern, boutique experience with a spectacular “Infinity Bath” effect.
• Minase Valley Guest Houses: Located at the foot of the mountain in Yuzawa. Ideal for those who want to visit Sukawa during the day but prefer the warmer valley at night.
• Ichinoseki City Hotels: For travelers arriving via Shinkansen, staying near Ichinoseki Station and taking the morning bus to Sukawa is a popular strategy.
• Abe Ryokan (Nearby Oyasu-kyo): A “Hitou” (Secret Hot Spring) lodge for those who want to combine the acidity of Sukawa with the river baths of Oyasu-kyo.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Marshes and Peak Views

Mt. Kurikoma Summit: A relatively easy hike (approx. 90 minutes from the onsen) leads to one of the most famous viewpoints in Japan. In autumn, the mountain is known as the “Carpet of the Gods” due to its dense, multicolored foliage.
Sukawa Lake: A mysterious lake nearby where the acidic water prevents most fish from living, resulting in a crystal-clear, deep blue surface that reflects the mountain peaks.
Showako Crater: A remnant of a volcanic eruption, this emerald pond is a short trek away and offers a dramatic look into the earth’s geothermal activity.

Local Gastronomy: The Purity of High-Altitude Farming

Due to the extreme altitude, the focus is on hardy mountain vegetables and pure water products.
Kurikoma Pork: Locally raised pork known for its sweet fat, often served as “Shabu-shabu” in the lodges.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
For Vegans: Request the “Kurikoma Sansai Teishoku” (Mountain Vegetable Set). Specify “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish dashi). The local “Yuzawa Miso” is used in many soups; ensure it is made with pure soybean and koji without fish additives. The high-altitude Huckleberries and Blueberries are local specialties—try the fresh jams available at the mountain market.

Cultural & Historical Context

Sukawa Onsen was historically a place of “Shugendo” (mountain asceticism). The fierce nature of the acidic water was seen as a test of the spirit. During the Edo period, the local lords of the Date Clan (Sendai) and Satake Clan (Akita) both claimed the springs, leading to a unique shared culture. Today, it remains a symbol of “Border Wellness,” where the provinces of Akita, Iwate, and Miyagi meet in a cloud of sulfur steam.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Sukawa Mountain Lodge is accustomed to “Toji” guests who may have various skin conditions or markings. Tattoos are generally ignored, but as a courtesy, using a waterproof sticker is recommended in the communal outdoor bath.
• Connectivity: Due to the altitude and remote location, Wi-Fi is only available in the lobby. Mobile signal can be weak or non-existent in the deeper valleys.
• Cash & Payments: While the main lodge accepts credit cards, the buses and mountain stalls are strictly cash-only (JPY). Withdraw cash in Yuzawa or Ichinoseki before heading up.
• Winter Closure: The road to Sukawa (Route 342) is **completely closed from early November to late April** due to extreme snow. Check the “Latest Updates” section for seasonal dates.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

For the 2025 autumn season, a new “Starry Peak Photography Tour” will be launched, utilizing the zero-light pollution of the Kurikoma heights. In 2026, the mountain lodge plans to debut a “Global Toji Program,” which includes English-speaking health consultations for guests interested in the medical benefits of acidic springs.

Safety & Manners

Because the water is highly acidic, do not get it in your eyes. It will sting. Also, do not wear silver jewelry, as the sulfur will turn it black instantly. Finally, please respect the “No Trekking Off-Path” rule; the volcanic soil is fragile and geothermal vents can be hidden beneath the grass.