Metou Onsen (芽登温泉)

Metou Onsen: The Century-Old “Solitary Bath” in the Heart of the Tokachi Primeval Forest

芽登温泉 (Metou Onsen) is a destination for the true romantic and the seeker of northern serenity. Tucked away 6 kilometers from the nearest public road in Ashoro Town, this hot spring inn has remained a solitary outpost of warmth and healing for over 120 years. Surrounded by a dense, primary forest of Todo fir and Ezo spruce, Metou is defined by its absolute stillness. Known for its rare, highly alkaline springs and its magnificent outdoor baths where wild Ezo deer and red foxes frequently appear as “fellow bathers,” Metou offers a raw, no-filter experience of Hokkaido’s wilderness. Whether you are watching the moonlight reflect in the mineral-rich waters or listening to the heavy silence of a Tokachi snowfall, Metou Onsen provides a restorative escape that feels light-years away from the modern world.

Key Information

The Healing Waters: The Science of High Alkalinity and “Liquid Silk”

The waters of Metou are scientifically remarkable for their purity and pH level. Classification-wise, these are strongly alkaline simple springs, with a pH that consistently reaches above 9.0. This makes the water act as a powerful natural skin conditioner. The alkalinity helps to gently dissolve old keratin and emulsify skin oils, leaving the body feeling as smooth as silk—earning it a national reputation as a “Bijin-no-yu” (Beauty Bath). The water gushes naturally from the earth at a perfect temperature of 42°C to 45°C, requiring no external heating or cooling. By maintaining a strict “Gensen Kakenagashi” system, Metou ensures that the water is used in its most bioactive state, providing an immediate sensation of warmth that penetrates deep into the body’s core.

Top Recommended Stays & Bases

• Metou Onsen Hotel (The Sanctuary): The only place to stay in the immediate area. It features simple, traditional Japanese-style rooms and a warm lobby with a wood-burning stove. The inn is famous for its hospitality and its “Konyoku” (mixed-gender) outdoor bath that looks out into the dense forest.
• Ashoro Center Hotels (Nearby Hub): Located about 30 minutes away in central Ashoro, providing a more standard town-base with access to local restaurants and the famous “Giant Butterbur” shops.
• Lake Shikaribetsu Hotels (Scenic Alternative): For those wanting a resort-style stay, combining Lake Shikaribetsu with a day-trip to Metou’s hidden springs is a popular itinerary for photographers.
• Kamishihoro-area Cottages (Nature/Family): Several high-quality independent cottages nearby offer a great alternative for families wanting a Western-style base after a soak at Metou.
Nukabira Gensen-kyo Ryokans (Nearby Adventure): Staying in nearby Nukabira allows easy access to Metou while being close to the “Phantom” Taushubetsu Bridge.

Must-Visit Public Baths (Soto-yu)

Metou is a quiet mountain enclave where the **Metou Onsen Hotel** acts as the primary “Soto-yu” for the region. For only 600 yen, visitors can access the large indoor mineral pools and the iconic **Forest View Rotenburo**. The outdoor bath is built from local river stones and features a mixed-gender area as well as dedicated times for women only. This is one of the few places in Japan where you can soak while watching the steam rise into the branches of centenarian fir trees. Note: Bring your own towel or buy one at the reception desk.

Walking Guide & Scenic Spots

Nature is the main event here. Start with the **Metou Forest Trail**; a gentle path that winds through the primary forest where you can hear the cries of black woodpeckers. For a wider view, visit the **Ashoro Town Lookout** at sunset for a view of the vast Tokachi plains and the distant Daisetsuzan peaks. For nature lovers, head to **Lake Onneto** (45 minutes drive), one of Hokkaido’s “three mystical lakes,” famous for its shifting blue-green colors. In winter, the 10-kilometer approach road to Metou becomes a silent “snow tunnel” that is spectacular for wildlife photography.

Local Gastronomy & Souvenirs

Ashoro is the “Giant Butterbur Capital” of Japan. You must try the **Akorofuki (Butterbur) Dishes**, a local specialty featuring stalks that grow up to 3 meters tall. Try the pickled butterbur or tempura served at the local diners. Ashoro is also home to world-class **Handmade Cheese** from farms like the “Ezorisu no Tani Cheese Sha.” For souvenirs, look for **Ashoro Honey** and hand-crafted **Ainu woodcarvings**. Don’t miss the original **Metou Onsen Mist**, a cosmetic spray made with 100% natural alkaline water.

Cultural & Historical Context

Metou Onsen was officially founded in 1905, but it was long used by the Ainu as a sacred healing site. The name “Metou” is derived from the Ainu word Metot, meaning “Deep in the Mountains.” Historically, the inn served as a vital resting point for forestry workers and pioneers who struggled through the harsh northern winters. Today, Metou is a leader in **Sustainable Nature Tourism**, focusing on the preservation of the primary forest and the protection of the rare Blakiston’s fish owl occasionally seen in the river valley.

Practical Travel Tips

Transportation: A private vehicle is **strongly recommended**. The final 6 kilometers to the onsen is a winding forest road; drive slowly and watch for deer. Mixed Bathing: The outdoor bath is mixed-gender (Konyoku) during most hours. While towels and bathing wear (yuami) are permitted, it is polite to maintain a quiet and respectful demeanor. Seasonality: Mid-May for fresh greenery and early February for the deepest winter silence are the best times to visit. Cash: The inn and local Ashoro shops primarily require Japanese Yen; ensure you have enough before heading into the mountains.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In February 2026, Metou Onsen will host its first **”Wilderness Starlight Photography Workshop,”** utilizing the area’s zero light pollution for professional-led sessions. Additionally, the **Metou Onsen Hotel** has recently completed an upgrade to its outdoor bath lighting system for the 2025 season, providing a softer, more atmospheric night soak experience for international guests.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always sit on the provided stool while washing and never place your towel in the water. When walking near the hotel at night, keep a respectful distance from the wild animals—while they are accustomed to humans, they are still wild. Please pack out all of your trash to protect the pristine forest ecosystem. Finally, remember that Metou is a place of deep silence; please avoid loud conversations to preserve the tranquil atmosphere for all guests.