Maruseppu Onsen (丸瀬布温泉)

Introduction: The Steam Engine Sanctuary and the Silk Waters of the Forest

Located in the majestic forest-clad valleys of northern Hokkaido, Maruseppu Onsen (丸瀬布温泉) is a destination where industrial nostalgia and thermal healing create a unique family-friendly adventure. Maruseppu is famous throughout Japan for the “Amemiya-21,” a meticulously preserved steam locomotive that still chuffs through the forest park adjacent to the onsen. The hot spring itself—centered around the “Maure-sanso” resort—is celebrated for its skin-softening alkaline waters. For the international traveler, Maruseppu Onsen offers a profound sensory experience: the smell of woodsmoke from a 1920s train, the sight of towering spruce forests, and a soak in waters that leave your skin feeling as smooth as silk. It is the perfect choice for those seeking a mix of Hokkaido’s “Green Tourism,” unique railway heritage, and high-quality wellness in a setting that feels like a high-altitude forest retreat.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Silky Forest” Effect

The water at Maruseppu Onsen is a High-Alkaline Simple Spring. The water is crystal clear and notably “slippery” to the touch—a characteristic of its high pH level. This alkalinity act as a natural, mild soap, emulsifying skin oils and gently exfoliating dead skin cells. This is why it is world-renowned as a “Bijin-no-yu” (Beauty Water). The primary facility, Maure-sanso, features a stunning outdoor bath (Rotenburo) built with local volcanic stones. From the tub, you can breathe in the cool mountain air and, on quiet afternoons, hear the distant whistle of the steam locomotive echoing through the valley. The thermal properties are excellent for soothing the body after a day of hiking or forest exploring, providing a deep, lasting warmth.

Top Recommended Stays & Bases

• Maure-sanso (マウレ山荘): A sophisticated, Western-style resort with a “Northern European” lodge aesthetic. It offers spacious rooms with large windows overlooking the forest. The restaurant is a highlight, serving “Maure Kaiseki” which features locally raised beef and fresh mountain trout. It is the premier choice for international families and couples.
• Ikoi-no-Mori Campground: Located right next to the SL train tracks, this is one of Hokkaido’s most popular campsites. It offers high-quality bungalows and turf sites. Many campers use the onsen at Maure-sanso for their daily relaxation.
• Maruseppu Town Guesthouses: Several small, friendly guest houses near the JR station offer a more budget-friendly, local experience for train enthusiasts.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Steam and Wood

Ikoi-no-Mori Park (Steam Locomotive Amemiya-21): A short walk from the onsen. This is the only place in Japan where a wood-burning steam locomotive operates in its original forest setting. A ride through the forest is a must-do for children and railway fans.
Maruseppu Woodcraft Museum: Hokkaido is famous for its woodworking, and this museum showcases incredible intricate carvings and allows visitors to try their hand at basic woodcraft.
Yamabiko Waterfall: A dramatic 28-meter waterfall located a short drive from the onsen. In winter, the entire waterfall freezes into a massive blue ice pillar, which is illuminated at night during special festivals.

Local Gastronomy: Bounty of the Forest and River

Maruseppu is a hub for high-quality forest products.
Mountain Trout (Yamame): Freshly caught from the local streams and often served salt-grilled at the Maure-sanso restaurant.
Forest Mushrooms: In autumn, the region produces incredible Maitake and Shiitake mushrooms.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: Maruseppu is a major producer of Hokkaido Pumpkin and Corn.
For Vegans: The Maure-sanso restaurant is relatively international and can adapt meals if notified in advance. For a casual snack, try the “SL Steam Buns” sold at the park stalls—ensure they are vegetable-filled. The local “Maruseppu Honey” is also a great vegan-friendly souvenir (for those who consume honey).

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Maruseppu” comes from the Ainu word “Ma-ru-se-p”, meaning “a place where three rivers meet.” Historically, the town was a vital center for the timber industry, and the steam locomotives were originally used to haul massive logs out of the deep mountains. The onsen was developed to provide wellness for the hardworking timber community and to transition the area toward ecological tourism. Today, Maruseppu stands as a proud example of “Industrial Heritage Tourism,” where the machines of the past and the healing waters of the earth exist in perfect harmony.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Maure-sanso is an international-style resort and is generally very tolerant of international guests. Small tattoos are fine; for large pieces, they offer cover stickers or you can visit during the quieter early afternoon hours.
• Language Support: Maure-sanso has English-speaking staff and provides English-language information on the SL train schedules and local hiking maps.
• Cash & Payments: The resort accepts major credit cards and Apple Pay. However, the SL train tickets and local park stalls are cash-only (JPY).
• Access: The **JR Sekihoku Main Line** (Okhotsk Express) stops at Maruseppu Station. The hotel provides a free shuttle bus for guests (reservation required). A rental car is still recommended to see the nearby waterfalls and distant viewpoints.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Maruseppu Onsen launched a “Steam & Soak” day-pass, which includes a ride on the Amemiya-21 locomotive and a bath at Maure-sanso at a discounted rate. For the 2026 season, new “Luxury Forest Cabins” are being built near the onsen area, featuring private in-room alkaline baths and floor-to-ceiling forest views.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always rinse your body thoroughly before entering the tub. Because the water is very alkaline and slippery, walk carefully on the tiled floors. When the SL train is running, never cross the tracks outside of designated areas—it is a real, heavy industrial machine. Finally, respect the quiet of the forest; Maruseppu is a sanctuary for both people and wildlife, so keep noise levels down in the evening to fully appreciate the nocturnal sounds of the Hokkaido wilderness.