Kusanagi Onsen (草薙温泉)

Introduction: The Golden Gateway to the Mogami Gorge

Perched on the banks of the majestic Mogami River, where the water carves through the deep limestone of the Mogami Gorge, lies Kusanagi Onsen (草薙温泉). Known as the “Emerald Gateway,” this destination offers a spectacular fusion of river culture and high-quality thermal wellness. Kusanagi is famous for its High-Alkalinity “Beauty Waters” that leave the skin feeling miraculously smooth—a natural luxury that has comforted boatmen and travelers for centuries. Unlike the rugged seclusion of Imagami, Kusanagi is a place of panoramic views and vibrant river activities. Here, you can watch the traditional riverboats glide past while soaking in an outdoor tub that feels like an extension of the river itself. As Yamagata takes the global spotlight in **2026 (National Geographic Best of the World)**, Kusanagi stands out as the premier destination for those who want to experience the “Mother River” and “Liquid Gold” in a single, refined journey.

Key Information Table

Address	〒999-6401 山形県最上郡戸沢村古口草薙 / Kusanagi, Furukuchi, Tozawa Village, Mogami-gun, Yamagata
Google Maps	View on Google Maps
Mapcode for GPS	273 487 757*11 (Main Ryokan District / Riverbank)
Spring Quality	Simple Alkaline Spring (High pH / Sodium-Bicarbonate properties)
Benefits	Exceptional for skin beautification (Peeling effect), chronic muscular relief, and easing long-distance travel fatigue.
Access	5-minute taxi from JR Furukuchi Station; 1 hour 10 min drive from Yamagata City.
Number of Ryokans	2-3 primary resorts (e.g., Takamiya Resort Kusanagi).
Day-trip Bathing	Available at flagship hotels 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM; Fee: ~800 – 1,000 JPY.

The Healing Waters: The “Alkaline Silk” of the Gorge

The water at Kusanagi Onsen is geologically prized for its purity and high $pH$ value, making it significantly alkaline.

The “Bijo-no-yu” Effect:

• Natural Peeling: The bicarbonate-rich alkaline water reacts with the skin’s oils to gently emulsify old keratin and dirt. This is why Kusanagi is a legendary “Spring of Beauty”—your skin will feel like polished porcelain after just one soak. [9, 4]
• Deep Relaxation: The soft, gentle nature of the water makes it ideal for children and elderly travelers. It doesn’t put stress on the heart, allowing for longer, more meditative soaks overlooking the river.

At Takamiya Resort Kusanagi, the outdoor **Rotenburo** is built to give the sensation of floating on the Mogami River. To soak here as the morning mist rises from the water is one of the most iconic “True North” experiences in Yamagata.

Top Recommended Stays: Riverside Resorts and Historical Elegance

• Takamiya Resort Kusanagi (高見屋 最上川別邸 紅): Address: Furukuchi Kusanagi. Part of the prestigious Takamiya group, this resort offers a refined, high-end experience. The rooms are designed with floor-to-ceiling windows to maximize the river views. It is the premier choice for international guests seeking luxury, English support, and exceptional Yamagata cuisine.
• Hotel Kusanagi: A large, traditional hotel known for its expansive facilities and proximity to the boat cruise embarkation point. It is highly recommended for families and large groups.
• Mogami River Cruise Base Camps: Several smaller inns near central Furukuchi provide a more rustic, local base for those focusing on river photography and hiking.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: River Cruises and Poet’s Paths

Mogami River Boat Cruise (Basho Line): One of Japan’s most famous river trips. You glide through the gorge while the boatmen sing traditional “Mogami-gawa” folk songs. The boat terminal is right at Kusanagi’s doorstep. [4]
Tozawa-han Historical Site: Explore the remnants of the local lord’s outpost that once controlled the river trade.
Matsuo Basho Memorials: The famous haiku poet Basho passed through here in 1689. You can walk the same paths he took and see the stone monuments dedicated to his work.

Local Gastronomy: Soba and Fermented Delicacies

Food in Kusanagi is a celebration of the river’s bounty and the basin’s fertile soil.
Signature Dish: Try the “Mogami Soba” served with **local river shrimp tempura**.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: 
For Vegans: Tozawa is a leader in **sustainable vegetable production**. At the river stations, request the “Vegetable Curry”—ask specifically “Niku-nashi” (No meat) and “Animal-stock free”. The local “Tozawa Natto” is famous for its large beans and deep flavor, providing a protein-rich vegan staple. [5, 6]

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Kusanagi” is steeped in legend, linked to the “Grass-Cutting Sword” of Japanese mythology. Historically, this area was a vital “Gunnai” (border post) where the Mogami lords monitored the traffic between the interior and the Sea of Japan. The onsen culture was developed to provide hospitality for the merchants and officials who traveled the river, establishing Kusanagi as a place of sophisticated rural welcome.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Takamiya Resort Kusanagi is tattoo-friendly for international guests using their private in-room baths. For communal baths, waterproof cover stickers are available at the front desk. [7, 8, 10]
• Connectivity: Strong 5G signals are available along the river corridor. Major resorts offer high-speed Wi-Fi in all guest rooms.
• Cash & Payments: While major hotels accept international credit cards, the boat cruise and local stalls are strictly cash JPY. There is an international ATM at the local post office near Furukuchi Station.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In **2025**, Kusanagi launched the “Mogami River Moonlight Cruise,” featuring night boat trips with lanterns followed by a late-night mineral soak. For the **2026 Season**, new “River Observation Decks” are being built behind the hotels to capitalize on the region’s zero light pollution and spectacular views of the stars.

Safety & Manners

River Safety: Never approach the Mogami River embankments during heavy rain or snowmelt, as the current is incredibly powerful and unpredictable.
Onsen Manners: Kusanagi’s water is highly alkaline and slippery; walk carefully on the tiled floors to prevent falls. [11]