Jozankei Onsen: Sapporo’s Scenic Gateway to Thermal Healing
Known as the “Okuzashiki” or Inner Parlor of Sapporo, Jozankei Onsen has been a sanctuary for weary travelers since its discovery by the monk Miura Jozan in 1866. Nestled in the stunning Toyohira River valley, just an hour from the city center, Jozankei offers a perfect blend of historic charm and breathtaking seasonal beauty, particularly during its world-famous autumn foliage peak.
It’s close to Sapporo, and there’s nothing like a hot spring to warm up your body after it’s been chilled to the bone from touring on a motorcycle. I fully enjoyed a route where I rode through Nakayama Pass, thawed out in the Jozankei footbaths on the way back, and then headed out to enjoy the Sapporo nightlife.
Key Information
| Address | 〒061-2302 北海道札幌市南区定山渓温泉 / Jozankei Onsen, Minami-ku, Sapporo, Hokkaido |
| Google Maps | View on Google Maps |
| Spring Quality | Sodium Chloride Spring (Neutral pH 6.9) |
| Benefits | Neuralgia, muscle pain, cold sensitivity, fatigue, and skin health |
| Access | 60-75 minutes by “Kappa Liner” bus or 40-50 minutes by car from central Sapporo |
| Number of Ryokans | Approximately 20 hotels and traditional Japanese inns |
| Day-trip Bathing | Available at many properties like Hana Momiji and Jozankei View Hotel |
The Healing Waters: Science and Legend
The waters of Jozankei are primarily sodium chloride based, which are scientifically proven to retain body heat by preventing sweat evaporation. The springs gush from the riverbed and mountain cracks at temperatures around 60-70°C. Legend tells that a young man once disappeared into the Toyohira River and returned in a dream, saying he lived happily with a Kappa (water sprite). Since then, Kappa have been the mascots and guardians of the town, symbolizing safety and the abundance of water.
Top 5 Recommended Ryokans
- Chalet Ivy Jozankei (Luxury/Modern): A high-end boutique inn where every room features a private hot spring and direct views of the gorge.
- Jozankei Daiichi Hotel Suizantei (Historic/Elegant): Known for its exceptional service and “Mori no Yu” detached bathhouse for a quiet, spiritual soak.
- Hana Momiji (Family/Value): An entertainment-focused hotel featuring traditional architecture, large open-air baths, and family-friendly buffet options.
- Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta (Design/Nature): A forest-themed resort that emphasizes wellness, offering a library, high-concept buffet, and music-filled lounge.
- Shogetsu Grand Hotel (Scenic/Classic): Every guest room commands a direct view of the spectacular Jozankei Gorge.
Must-Visit Public Baths (Soto-yu)
While most baths are within hotels, Hoheikyo Onsen (a short shuttle ride away) is a must-visit. It is famous for its massive outdoor rock bath (one of the largest in Japan) and its strangely popular authentic Indian curry restaurant. In the town center, Jozan Gensen Park offers free footbaths where you can even boil your own “Onsen Eggs” in the geothermal water.
Walking Guide & Scenic Spots
The “Futami Jozan Road” is a 2.5km healing corridor. Start at Futami Park (home to the Kappa King statue) and cross the bright red Futami Suspension Bridge for the town’s most iconic view. For a longer trek, visit the Hoheikyo Dam, especially during the autumn release of water for a dramatic sight.
Local Gastronomy & Souvenirs
Try the Onsen Manju (steamed buns) from “Daikokuya,” which have been a staple since the early 1900s. For lunch, the “Onsen Curry” at Hoheikyo is legendary. New local spots like Yamanokaze Machi offer artisan bakeries and trendy cafes. Kappa-themed souvenirs and local wood-aged wines are the most popular items to take home.
Cultural & Historical Context
The foundation of the town was laid by Miura Jozan, a Buddhist monk who overcame the harsh wilderness to build a healing bath for the sick. He is honored at the Jozankei Shrine, a peaceful power spot on a hill that hosts many of the town’s traditional festivals.
Practical Travel Tips
- Transportation: The “Kappa Liner” bus is highly popular and requires advance reservation.
- Tattoos: Many luxury hotels like Suizantei or Shogetsu provide private reservable baths for guests with tattoos.
- Winter: Jozankei is very close to the Sapporo Kokusai Ski Resort; many visitors spend the day skiing and the evening soaking.
2025-2026 Latest Updates
In winter (late Jan to early Feb 2026), visit the Snow Candle Path (Yukitouro) at Jozankei Shrine, where thousands of lanterns create a mystical atmosphere. In summer and autumn 2025, the Nature Luminarie will illuminate the suspension bridge with interactive digital art from sunset until 9 PM.
Safety & Manners
Please keep a quiet tone during your night walks through the onsen town, as many guests are sleeping early. When using the public footbaths, always dry your feet thoroughly with your own towel before putting your shoes back on to keep the area clean. Respect the Kappa statues—they are beloved symbols of the community.
