Goshiki Onsen (五色温泉)

Introduction: The Cradle of Japanese Skiing and the Fertility Springs

Situated 800 meters high on the northern foothills of the Azuma Mountain Range lies Goshiki Onsen (五色温泉). Translating to “The Five-Colored Springs,” its name refers to the mystical changing hues of the water vapor witnessed by the ascetic monk En no Gyoja 1,300 years ago.[34, 35, 36] While its ancient history is sacred, Goshiki holds a legendary place in modern sports as the birthplace of Japan’s first private ski resort (1911). For decades, it was the exclusive playground of the Japanese Imperial family and global elite, centered around the Rokka Club lodge. After a period of decline, Goshiki Onsen underwent a revolutionary revival in 2023, transforming from a traditional ryokan into a high-end Auto Campsite with a Luxury Onsen.[4, 1, 2] For the international traveler, Goshiki offers a unique fusion of historical prestige and modern “Slow Life”—a place to camp under the stars and soak in “Fertility Waters” once reserved for princes.[37, 4]

Key Information Table

Address	〒992-1331 山形県米沢市大字板谷498 / 498 Itaya, Yonezawa City, Yamagata [38, 39, 40]
Google Maps	View on Google Maps
Mapcode for GPS	No specific code (Use coordinates or “Itaya Station” for base navigation) [39]
Spring Quality	Sodium, Calcium-Bicarbonate / Chloride Spring (Neutral pH) [41, 42]
Benefits	Legendary as “Kodakara-no-yu” (Fertility Water); exceptional for skin softening and recovery from chronic musculoskeletal pain. [43, 44, 4]
Access	20-minute drive from JR Itaya Station (Ou Main Line); 30-minute drive from Yonezawa-Hachimanpara IC. [38, 39]
Number of Facilities	1 primary facility: Goshiki Onsen Auto Campsite (Includes spa building and management cafe). [4, 40]
Day-trip Bathing	10:00 AM – 8:00 PM; Fee: 1,000 JPY (Adults); Closed on Wednesdays. [43, 4]

The Healing Waters: The “Sodium-Calcium” Shell of Warmth

The water at Goshiki Onsen is prized for being 100% natural, free-flowing source water (Gensen Kakenagashi) with no dilution or artificial heating. It is a Sodium-Calcium-Bicarbonate-Chloride Spring.

The “Kodakara” Science:

• The Cleansing Bicarbonate: The bicarbonate ions ($HCO_3^-$) react with skin oils to gently emulsify old keratin, leaving your body feeling silky smooth—this is why it has been a favorite of the elite for skin rejuvenation for over a century.[45, 46]
• The Chloride Heat Seal: The calcium-chloride components form a microscopic “shell” on the skin, trapping heat and minerals. This deep-warming effect is scientifically linked to improving blood flow to the reproductive organs, supporting its legacy as a “Fertility Bath.”[44, 4]
• Neutral and Gentle: With a neutral $pH$ of around $6.4$ to $6.6$, the water is non-irritating and ideal for long, meditative soaks while gazing at the forested peaks of Mt. Nishi-Azuma.[36, 41, 42]

The new spa building features natural stone tubs and large “Picture Windows” designed to frame the changing mountain scenery.

Top Recommended Stays: The New Era of Camping

• Goshiki Onsen Auto Campsite (五色温泉オートキャンプ場): Address: 498 Itaya. The only way to stay overnight at Goshiki now. This modern facility offers 100% natural onsen and high-end saunas for campers.[4, 1] Their **Finnish-style sauna** uses “TYLO” equipment and offers views of the forest. It is the best choice for travelers seeking a Sustainable Outdoor Experience.
• Yonezawa City Hotels (Nearby): For those who do not wish to camp, staying at the Best Western The Japonais Yonezawa and taking a day trip to Goshiki for its unique historical sauna is the recommended alternative.[47, 48]

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Ski Slopes and Imperial Phantoms

The Rokka Club Site: Explore the history of the 1924 imperial lodge that once housed Prince Chichibu. Although the building was dismantled in 2000, the site remains a spiritual pilgrimage for skiing history buffs.[49, 50]
Itaya Station: Once a famous “switchback” station on the Ou line, now an atmospheric unmanned stop that serves as the base for reaching Goshiki.[50]
Mt. Issaikyo Hiking: The campsite serves as a gateway for the 7-hour trek to Mt. Issaikyo and the “Witch’s Eye” crater, connecting you to the wild energy of the Azuma range.[51, 52]

Local Gastronomy: Campfire Wagyu and Warehouse Coffee

Food in Goshiki has shifted from kaiseki to high-quality local provisions.
Management Building Cafe: Housed in a renovated historical brick storehouse, this cafe serves light meals and sells local Yonezawa ingredients for campers to cook over an open flame.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: 
For Vegans: The campsite shop sells fresh **Yamagata Fruits and Vegetables** in season. We recommend picking up Yonezawa Tofu and local mushrooms at the Yonezawa City Market before arriving.[53, 54] At the campsite, you can enjoy 100% plant-based “Campfire Grilled Vegetables” using locally sourced heirlooms.

Cultural & Historical Context

Goshiki Onsen is a monument to Japan’s Westernization and Modern Leisure. It was here that Austrian trader Egon von Kratzer and Major Theodor von Lerch introduced modern alpine skiing to Japan in 1911. To soak here is to touch the legacy of a time when the world’s elite first discovered the powder snow and mineral waters of the “True North.”

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: As a modern outdoor facility, Goshiki Onsen is very tattoo-friendly. The sauna and bath facilities are open to all guests without restriction, though discretion is always appreciated during peak hours.
• Connectivity: Mobile signal is stable (5G) around the management building. Major ryokan Wi-Fi is no longer available as the inn has closed, but the campsite management area offers free Wi-Fi.
• Cash & Payments: Day-trip entry is cash-only via a ticket machine. The management building cafe and camping reservations accept major international credit cards and electronic payments like PayPay.[43, 4]

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In **2026**, Goshiki Onsen will launch the “Snow-Sauna Weekend,” featuring outdoor “tent saunas” in the deep snow area of the former ski slope. Furthermore, the campsite is expanding its **Sustainable Energy Project**, utilizing geothermal heat to keep the bathrooms and wash areas warm without CO2 emissions.[55, 4]

Safety & Manners

Sauna Rules: Do not use hot spring water for Löyly (pouring water on stones) as it will damage the heaters; use the designated tap water provided near the sauna.[43]
Winter Safety: The road to Goshiki is a 7km mountain climb that is unploughed at night. For winter visits, only 4WD vehicles with studless tires should attempt the drive, and arriving before sunset is essential.[56, 57, 24]