Introduction: The Ancient “Rock Throne” of the Southern Frontier
Located in the serene hills of Hanawa Town, near the border of Fukushima and Ibaraki, lies Yujimata Onsen (湯岐温泉). This is one of Japan’s most historically significant “secluded springs” (Hitou), centered around the legendary **Izumiya Ryokan**, which has been managed by the same family for 20 generations since 1534. Yujimata is a place of profound stillness, where the modern world feels like a distant memory. The defining feature of this resort is the “Iwaburo” (Rock Bath)—a natural granite tub where the mineral water gushes directly from a crack in the bedrock. Known as the “Spring of the Deer,” it was discovered after a hunter saw a wounded stag healing its legs in the warm, bubbling pool. For the international traveler, Yujimata offers a rare encounter with the “Slow Life” of old Japan. It is a destination for true **Balneotherapy (Hot Spring Therapy)**, where the water is kept at a gentle, lukewarm temperature, allowing for hours of deep, transformative soaking that resets the nervous system and repairs the skin.
Key Information Table
| Address | 〒963-5401 福島県東白川郡塙町大字湯岐 / Yujimata, Hanawa-machi, Higashishirakawa-gun, Fukushima |
| Google Maps | View on Google Maps |
| Mapcode for GPS | 622 267 849*23 (Essential for finding the historic inn district) |
| Spring Quality | Alkaline Simple Spring (pH 9.6 / 100% Natural Bedrock Gushing) |
| Benefits | Famous for “Nerve Pain” and “Stroke Recovery.” Its high alkalinity makes it a premier “Beauty Water” that gently peels and moisturizes the skin. |
| Access | 15-min taxi from JR Iwaki-Ishii Station (Suigun Line); 45-min drive from Shirakawa IC (Tohoku Expressway). |
| Number of Ryokans | 2 primary landmark inns: Izumiya and Yamagataya. |
| Day-trip Bathing | Typically 9:30 AM – 6:00 PM; Fee: 500 JPY. Note: The historic rock bath may have specific gender-shared hours. |
The Healing Waters: The Power of the Granite Crack
The water at Yujimata Onsen is geologically prized for its “Freshness.” Unlike springs that are pumped through long pipes, the water here is “Ashimoto-yushutsu” (Gushing from your feet).
Balneological Properties: With a pH of 9.6, this is one of the most alkaline springs in Fukushima. High alkalinity acts as a natural exfoliant, softening the skin and helping to treat chronic dermatitis. The water emerges at approximately 37-39°C. While this may feel “lukewarm” to some, it is the ideal temperature for “Cho-yu” (Long Soaking). Scientific studies show that soaking for 60+ minutes in this temperature range maximizes mineral absorption and effectively stabilizes the autonomic nervous system. The sensation is often described as “being enveloped in a velvet silk.” The legendary “Iwaburo” at Izumiya is a mixed-gender bath where you sit directly on the granite source, a spiritual and physical experience that has remained unchanged for nearly 500 years.
Top Recommended Stays
- Izumiya Ryokan (和泉屋旅館): The historic guardian of Yujimata. Staying here is like stepping into a Meiji-era novel. The inn is famous for its 20 generations of “Yumori” (Spring Guardian) heritage. They offer traditional meals and access to the sacred rock bath. It is highly recommended for history buffs and serious wellness seekers.
- Yamagataya (山形屋): A quiet, family-run inn that offers a more intimate and modern-Japanese feel while still providing access to the therapeutic Yujimata waters. Famous for its “Satoyama” hospitality and locally sourced ingredients.
Must-Visit neighborhood area: Dahlias and Temples
Hanawa Dahlia Garden: From August to October, visit this spectacular garden featuring 300 varieties and 5,000 dahlias. It is one of the largest in Tohoku and offers incredible photography opportunities.
Abukuma Gorges: Explore the nearby walking trails that feature rugged rock formations and clear mountain streams—perfect for negative ion therapy before your afternoon soak.
Hanawa Town Cultural Center: Learn about the region’s connection to the Mito Clan and the famous scholar **Fujita Toko**, who stayed at Yujimata in 1853 to heal his ailments.
Local Gastronomy: The Kingdom of Konnyaku
Hanawa is famous for its **Sashimi Konnyaku** (Yam Cake).
Konnyaku: Made from the konjac plant, Hanawa’s version is incredibly smooth and light. It is a staple of the ryokan meals.
River Fish: Grilled “Ayu” (Sweetfish) caught in the Kuji River system.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Hanawa is a paradise for Fiber-rich Plant Foods. The local specialty **”Sashimi Konnyaku”** is 100% vegan and often served with a sweet miso sauce. At the **Michi-no-Eki (Roadside Station) Hanawa**, you can find seasonal mountain vegetables and specialized vegan-friendly bento boxes. Request the **”Konnyaku Feast”** at your inn—by avoiding the fish broth (katsuo-dashi), you can enjoy a complex, satisfying, and healthy plant-based meal unique to this southern frontier.
Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors
- Tattoo Policy: Small-scale traditional inns like Izumiya are generally very discreet and welcoming. If you have large tattoos, booking a private family bath (Kashikiri) is the best way to enjoy the mineral waters with complete peace of mind.
- Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available in the main buildings, but cell signal can be spotty in the deeper valley sections. Download your travel maps for offline use.
- Cash & Payments: Hanawa is a traditional area. While larger hotels may accept cards, the smaller guesthouses and local shops are strictly cash-only.
- Rental Car: Highly recommended. The drive through the Hanawa hills is spectacular, especially during the autumn foliage season in early November.
2025-2026 Latest Updates
For the 2025-2026 season, Hanawa Town has launched the “Dahlia & Mineral Pass,” a combined ticket that offers discounts for the Dahlia Garden and day-trip entry to Yujimata Onsen. Additionally, a new “Fujita Toko Historical Walk” has been developed, retracing the steps of the famous 19th-century scholar.
Safety & Manners
Mixed Bathing: The historic rock bath is traditionally mixed-gender. For those uncomfortable with this, check for the “Women Only” hours (typically in the early morning or evening).
Lukewarm Water Etiquette: Because the water is not steaming hot, do not keep the faucets running to try and “heat” it up. Respect the natural temperature of the earth’s gift; it is designed for long-term therapeutic effect, not instant heat.
