Soma Matsukawaura Onsen (相馬松川浦温泉)

Introduction: The Thousand-Year Samurai Coast and the Sparkling Lagoon

Located on the northern coast of Fukushima Prefecture, where the emerald lagoons of the Pacific meet the martial pride of Japan’s horse-riding warriors, lies Soma Matsukawaura Onsen (相馬松川浦温泉). This destination—centered around the nationally recognized Matsukawaura Lagoon—is a place where geological beauty and samurai history collide. While its neighbor Soma City is famous for its castle ruins, the onsen district is celebrated for its restorative mineral springs and its status as the definitive “Base Camp” for the Soma Nomaoi, a UNESCO-listed festival with over 1,000 years of history.[33] For the international traveler, Soma Matsukawaura offers a profound encounter with the spirit of “Hamadori” (the coastal road). It is a place to soak in skin-toning mineral waters while watching the sunrise over the Pacific, breathe in the salt-rich air of the shoreline, and experience the resilience of a community that has guarded the northern coast since the Heian period. Whether you seek to heal your muscles after a day of cycling or simply hide away in a world of pine forests and blue seas, Soma Matsukawaura provides a restorative sanctuary at the edge of the Pacific frontier.[34, 35]

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Tidal Silk” of the Northern Reefs

The water at Soma Matsukawaura Onsen is geologically prized for its high mineral clarity and deep-crust warmth. It is primarily a Weak Alkaline Simple Spring, but certain sources like Kabaniwakan feature high concentrations of bicarbonate ions ($HCO_3^-$).
The Tightening Effect: The mineral balance acts as a natural astringent, gently tightening skin pores and leaving your body feeling invigorated—the definitive “Thermal Lift” sensation.
The Heat Retention: The salt content from the coastal geology forms a microscopic veil on your skin, preventing the evaporation of body heat—a vital trait for warding off the chilly sea breezes of the Fukushima coast.
The flagship facility, Hotel Hiten, features grand outdoor tubs (Rotenburo) built with local stone overlooking the lagoon. To soak here as the fishing fleet returns to Haragama Port at dusk is a spiritual experience. The water’s alkalinity ensures your skin feels silky and hydrated long after you dry off.

Top 5 Recommended Stays

• Hotel Hiten (ホテル飛天): Address: 104-3 Nakasako, Wada. A luxury resort that combines modern comfort with samurai aesthetics. It offers spectacular views of the lagoon and features the “East-meets-West Wellness Center” for acupuncture and traditional massage.
• Soma Matsukawaura Onsen Kabaniwakan (蒲庭館): Address: 12 Maesako, Kabaniwa. A historic lodge established 230 years ago following a vision from Kannon. Famous for its magnificent “Sohoen” garden, named by the philosopher Tokutomi Soho.
• Soma Station Hotel: Address: 1-8-20 Nakamura. A convenient base for rail travelers and business guests, offering easy access to the historic downtown sites.[36, 37]
• Tomoeya Ryokan (トモエヤ旅館): A warm, family-run inn popular for its “Omotenashi” and proximity to the Matsukawaura Nature Park.
• Nagisa-no-kan Yuuzuru: Located in the Obama district, this inn is perfect for those seeking quiet coastal seclusion and elite seafood dining.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Samurai Horses and Scenic Bridges

Soma Nomaoi (UNESCO Cultural Heritage): Held every May 24-26, this festival features hundreds of samurai on horseback racing and competing for sacred flags. It is one of the most spectacular displays of martial tradition in Asia.
Matsukawaura Bridge: A beautiful cable-stayed bridge that serves as the gateway to the lagoon’s outer reef road—one of the top driving routes in Tohoku.
Soma Nakamura Castle Ruins: The former seat of the Soma clan, offering a fascinating look at the region’s feudal architecture and defensive strategy.
Hamanoeki Matsukawaura: Soma City’s “Kitchen Pantry,” where you can buy fresh Pacific seafood and local agricultural products directly from the producers.

Local Gastronomy: The Kingdom of Surf Clams and “Ten-no-tsubu” Rice

Food in Soma is defined by the high mineral runoff of the Abukuma mountains into the Pacific.
Soma Surf Clams (Hokki-gai): Large, sweet, and incredibly tender. Try the “Hokki-meshi” (surf clam rice), a local soul food.
Flatfish (Hirame): Known as the “King of the Coast,” caught fresh daily at Haragama Port.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Restaurant MADY (Nearby Minamisoma): A 20-minute drive away, this spot is highly vegan-friendly, offering seasonal vegetable courses (Bagunacauda style) with advance notice.[43]
Ten-no-tsubu Rice: Soma’s award-winning home-grown rice. At the ryokan, request the “Soma Vegetable Feast”—ensure you specify “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish stock) to enjoy the pristine flavors of local soy and mountain vegetables.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Soma” is steeped in legend, derived from the clan that has governed this area for 26 generations. The onsen culture was built on the foundation of “Samurai Recovery,” providing healing for warriors after long training sessions with their horses. The Kabaniwa Onsen was reportedly discovered after a spiritual revelation from the Goddess Kannon, cementing the area’s reputation as a place where the divine and the natural world interweave.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Larger resorts like Hotel Hiten are generally accommodating to international guests. For small tattoos, no special action is needed; for large pieces, using a waterproof sticker is considered polite in public baths.
• Connectivity & Payments: Mobile signals are stable, but Wi-Fi can be patchy on the lagoon’s outer reaches. Major hotels accept credit cards, but Hamanoeki and local stalls are cash-only (JPY).
• Nomaoi Access: During the festival in May, JR East operates the special “Soma Nomaoi Express” directly from Tokyo (Shinagawa) to Soma/Minamisoma.[33]

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Soma launched the “Samurai Coastal Cycle Road,” a 50km path connecting the lagoon to the castle town. For the 2026 season, the “Soma Quest IV” digital scavenger hunt will offer international visitors a chance to earn rewards while visiting hidden shrines and onsen spots.

Safety & Manners

Always rinse your body thoroughly before entering the bath. Because the lagoon area is a protected ecosystem, do not use soap or shampoo in natural pools if bathing outdoors. If visiting during Nomaoi, remember that horses have the right of way; follow the instructions of marshals in samurai armor. Finally, respect the quiet of the lagoon; Soma is a place for recovery and reflection.