Nekonaki Onsen (猫啼温泉)

Introduction: The Radiant Silence of the “Crying Cat” and the Legend of the Poetess

In the quiet, mineral-rich hills of Ishikawa Town, along the banks of the Abukuma River system, lies Nekonaki Onsen (猫啼温泉). This destination is a sanctuary for those who seek the “Quiet Tohoku”—a world where folklore and geothermal science intertwine. The name “Nekonaki” literally translates to “Crying Cat,” derived from a poignant 1,000-year-old legend involving the famous Heian-period poetess, Izumi Shikibu. According to local lore, when Shikibu departed for the capital, she left her beloved cat behind; the cat’s sorrowful cries eventually led to the discovery of the healing waters that restored the feline’s health.[1] For the international traveler, Nekonaki offers a profound encounter with Balneotherapy (Hot Spring Therapy) through its rare radium-rich waters. It is a place for “Shinrin-yoku” (forest bathing) and deep cellular recovery, far removed from the neon-lit resorts of the coast. To soak here is to step into a living myth, where the steam rising from the radium springs carries the whispers of ancient Japan.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The Science of Radiation Hormesis

The waters of Nekonaki Onsen are geologically unique, belonging to the rare Radioactive Spring category. Unlike volcanic sulfur springs, these waters contain microscopic amounts of Radon (Rn), a natural gas derived from radium in the local bedrock.

The Hormesis Effect: From a medical perspective, these springs are used for “Stimulus Therapy.” When you inhale the radon gas and absorb the mineral ions, they trigger a biological response known as Radiation Hormesis—stimulating the body’s antioxidant enzymes and enhancing the natural healing power of cells.[4, 5] The water is clear, odorless, and maintained at a therapeutic warmth. Because it is a “Cold Mineral Spring” that is heated, the mineral balance is exceptionally stable. The flagship facility, Izutsuya, features expansive indoor tubs and a quiet riverside bath where the sound of the wind through the bamboo provides a natural soundtrack to your recovery.

Top Recommended Stay: Izutsuya (式部のやかた 井筒屋)

• The Experience: Izutsuya is more than an inn; it is a monument to regional history. Named after Izumi Shikibu, the inn features traditional Japanese architecture with modern comfort. The rooms are spacious with views of the surrounding hills. Their dinner service is a masterclass in “Ishikawa Gastronomy,” serving locally raised **”Ishikawa Beef”** and fresh river produce. It is the definitive choice for international travelers seeking a meditative, high-end stay.[6]
• Alternative bases: For those on a budget, several small minshukus in central Ishikawa town provide shuttle services to the onsen for a daily soak.

Must-Visit neighborhood area: Minerals and Museums

Ishinikuru (Ishikawa Town Historical Folk Museum): Located 10 minutes away, this museum showcases Ishikawa’s status as one of Japan’s three major mineral-producing regions. See giant crystals and learn about the pegmatite geology that feeds the radium springs.[7, 8]

Nekonaki River Walk: A peaceful trail along the river where the legendary cat was said to have cried. Perfect for a morning stroll before the heat of the bath.

Ono no Komachi Connection: Nearby shrines and markers commemorate the childhood and legends of both Izumi Shikibu and Ono no Komachi, two of the most influential women in Japanese literature.[1]

Local Gastronomy: The Bounty of the Mineral Soil

Food in Ishikawa is defined by the high mineral content of the local soil.
Ishikawa Beef: Locally raised wagyu known for its tenderness and rich marbling. Try the “Beef Shabu-shabu” at Izutsuya.
Fresh Soba: Handmade noodles made with mineral-rich spring water.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Ishikawa is a leader in Tofu and Root Vegetable production. At the inn, request the **”Ishikawa Shojin-style Gozen”**—specify “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish dashi). The local “Ishikawa Tofu” is famous for its dense texture and sweet soy flavor. We also recommend buying local Apple Juice at the Michi-no-Eki (Roadside Station) “Ishikawa,” which is 100% plant-based and refreshing.[4, 8]

Cultural & Historical Context

Nekonaki Onsen is a place where literature meets landscape. The connection to Izumi Shikibu—a poet of the Imperial court—elevates this onsen from a simple bath to a cultural site. The town of Ishikawa has preserved these stories for a millennium, treating the onsen as a guardian of the “Yamabito” (mountain people) spirit. Today, Nekonaki remains a symbol of resilience, maintaining its traditional “Toji” (healing) culture while welcoming global travelers seeking a biological and spiritual detox.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Izutsuya is generally discreet and accepting. Small tattoos are ignored; for large pieces, using a private bath (Kashikiri) or a room with a private tub is recommended to ensure a stress-free experience.
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is stable in the main hotel lobby, but mobile signal can be weak in the older wooden wings. High-speed Wi-Fi is standard at the Ishikawa Town Library.
• Cash & Payments: Major hotels accept credit cards. However, local shops and smaller eateries in Ishikawa are strictly cash-only (JPY).
• Rental Car: A rental car is highly recommended to visit the mineral museum and the distant shrine sites. The drive through the Abukuma hills is breathtaking in both spring (Sakura) and autumn (Maple).

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Nekonaki Onsen launched the “Izumi Shikibu Moonlit Poetry Nights,” featuring guided night walks and classical readings by the river. For the 2026 season, new “Radium Inhalation Decks” are being constructed to allow guests to benefit from the hormonesis effect in the open air during the morning hours.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always rinse your body thoroughly before entering the tub. Because the water contains radon, deep breathing while in the bath is recommended to maximize the health benefits. Avoid staying in the water too long on your first day; radium springs can be quite stimulating for the heart. Finally, respect the quiet; Nekonaki is a place where silence is considered part of the medicine.