Iizaka Onsen (飯坂温泉)

Introduction: The Historic Gateway to the Oshu Frontier and the Eternal Waters of Basho

Located just north of central Fukushima City, along the rushing Surikami River, lies Iizaka Onsen (飯坂温泉). As one of the “Three Great Springs of Oshu” (alongside Akiu and Naruko), Iizaka boasts a lineage that stretches back 1,800 years. Legend states it was discovered by the deity Yamato Takeru, but it is the ghost of the haiku master Matsuo Basho that truly defines its spirit. Basho bathed here in 1689 during his “Narrow Road to the Deep North” journey, and the town remains a living museum of Edo-period aesthetics and rustic hospitality. For the international traveler, Iizaka is the definitive “Onsen Town” experience—a dense grid of historic wooden inns, bustling public bathhouses (Soto-yu), and modern culinary surprises. It is a place where you can soak in the same “hot, purifying waters” that Basho described, while watching the red-roofed Iizaka Line trains rattle across the river. Whether you seek a luxurious riverside retreat or a casual “public bath crawl,” Iizaka provides a vibrant, authentic window into the heart of Tohoku.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Samurai Heat” of the Surikami

Iizaka Onsen is famous—and notorious—for its temperature. The water at the public bathhouses often exceeds 45°C (113°F), a level of heat that requires mental fortitude and a specific bathing technique.

Balneological Properties: The water is an Alkaline Simple Spring. With a high pH, it acts as a natural cleanser, gently removing dead skin cells and leaving the body feeling incredibly smooth. This is why it is consistently ranked as a top “Bihada-no-yu” (Beautiful Skin Water) in Northern Japan.
The Soto-yu Culture: There are 9 public bathhouses in town. The crown jewel is Sabako-yu (鯖湖湯), a stunning cedar-wood structure rebuilt in the Meiji style. It is the oldest public bath in Japan and the very site where Basho soaked. International visitors should be prepared: locals take pride in the heat. Pro-tip: Do not add cold water (umemitari) without asking the other bathers first!

Top 5 Recommended Stays

• Yoshikawaya (吉川屋): Located in nearby Anabara, this is the premier choice for luxury. It features massive open-air baths overlooking the river and a library of 4,000 manga. Very English-friendly.
• Iizaka Hotel Juraku (飯坂ホテル聚楽): A large-scale spa resort with a world-class buffet featuring local Fukushima beef and fresh sashimi. Ideal for families and groups.
• Onyado Kawasemi (御宿 かわせみ): An ultra-exclusive ryokan known for its “Ryor-yado” status—where the food is the main attraction. Perfect for gourmet travelers.
• Surikamitei Ohtori (摺上亭 大鳥): Offers spacious modern-Japanese rooms and a fantastic public bath with high negative ion levels.
• Itoen Hotel Iizakakanouya: A budget-friendly option that includes all-you-can-drink sake and beer with dinner. Very popular with international backpackers.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Haiku and Heritage

Basho Statue: Located right outside Iizaka Onsen Station, marking the start of your journey.

Kyu Horikiri-tei: A massive Edo-period estate of a wealthy merchant. It features the oldest earthen storehouse in Fukushima and a beautiful free footbath in the garden.

Nakano Fudoson: An 800-year-old temple complex built around a waterfall and a network of caves. A powerful “power spot” just a 10-minute drive away.

Hanamomo-no-Sato: A spectacular park featuring 300 flowering peach trees that turn the valley into a pink paradise in April.

Local Gastronomy: The Kingdom of the Disk Dumpling

Iizaka is a food lover’s paradise, defined by two legendary items.
Enban Gyoza (Disk Dumplings): Fukushima City’s soul food. 20-30 dumplings are fried in a circle to fit the pan. Gyoza no Terui in Iizaka is the most famous spot; arrive early as lines are long!
Radium Eggs: Eggs boiled in the onsen water. They have a creamy, custard-like yolk and are named after the town’s radium discovery history (though the eggs are not radioactive!).
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Oncafe: A trendy cafe near Sabako-yu that offers Chilled Peach Pasta (seasonal) and vegetarian-friendly plates. For vegans, the Enban Gyoza usually contains pork, so we recommend visiting “Shokudo Hitoto” in central Fukushima City (20 mins by train) for dedicated 100% vegan organic meals.

Cultural & Historical Context

The history of Iizaka is a story of Resilience and Art. From the samurai warriors of the Boshin War to the literary giants of the Showa era, Iizaka has been a stage for Japanese history. The town’s layout—centered around the public baths—reflects a community that values shared space and the “Hadaka no Tsukiai” (naked communication) spirit. Today, it is a hub for the “Fukushima Sake Seven” project, linking its ancient waters with the world’s best sake breweries.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: The public bathhouses (Soto-yu) like Sabako-yu are generally tattoo-friendly as they are community assets. However, in larger hotel resorts, private baths are the safest option.
• Connectivity: Free public Wi-Fi is available at the station and Kyu Horikiri-tei. Credit cards are standard in hotels, but public baths are cash-only (coins needed).
• Transport: Use the “Iizaka Onsen Pass” from Fukushima Station, which includes a round-trip train ticket and entry to one public bath.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

For 2025, Iizaka launched the “Sabako-yu Anniversary Light-up,” featuring evening projections on the historic wooden bathhouse. In 2026, the “Surikami Gorge Eco-Cycling” program will debut, offering E-bike rentals to visit the nearby dams and waterfalls.

Safety & Manners

The Heat Rule: Before entering, always perform Kake-yu (pouring water over yourself) to adjust your body to the high temperature. Enter slowly. Disk Dumpling Etiquette: Many gyoza shops are evening-only; check the hours on Google Maps before you go. Finally, respect the locals; for many, Sabako-yu is their daily living room.