Aizu Hongo Onsen (会津本郷温泉)

Introduction: The Thermal Heartland of Tohoku’s Oldest Pottery

Nestled at the southern edge of the Aizu Basin lies Aizu Hongo Onsen (会津本郷温泉), a destination where the steam of the earth meets the smoke of ancient kilns. This area is the birthplace of Aizu Hongo-yaki, the oldest pottery tradition in northern Japan, dating back to 1593.[14, 15] Historically established to provide recovery for the master craftsmen who built the magnificent Tsurugajo Castle, the hot springs here are deeply intertwined with the artisan spirit. For the international traveler, Hongo offers a rare opportunity for “Hands-on Wellness.” You can spend your afternoon shaping clay under the guidance of 15th-generation masters and your evening dissolving into mineral waters that have healed the hands of samurais and potters for over 400 years. In 2025-2026, Aizu Hongo remains a premier destination for “Cultural Immersion,” providing a tranquil, artistic sanctuary far from the industrial noise of modern travel.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The Artisan’s Remedy

The waters of Aizu Hongo are scientifically classified as Sodium-Chloride Sulfate springs. Drawn from deep beneath the volcanic basin, they possess a mineral profile designed for long-term recovery.

The “Heat Retention” Synergy

Scientifically, the chloride ions ($Cl^{-}$) form a thin “mineral veil” on the skin, which prevents the evaporation of body heat. This is vital for the potters of Hongo, who work in drafty studios during the freezing Tohoku winters. Simultaneously, the sulfate ions promote skin hydration and micro-circulation, helping to soothe the repetitive strain of wheel-turning and clay-kneading.[16, 2] The water is clear and has a very subtle earthy aroma, reflecting its journey through the mineral-rich base rocks of the southern Aizu mountains.

Top 5 Recommended Stays & Regional Bases

• Aizu Hongo Onsen Yunokura (湯陶里): Address: Setomachi. The primary gateway to Hongo’s thermal culture. It is a modern, community-focused facility that combines high-quality hot springs with an exhibition of local pottery. Their indoor baths feature massive “Hongo-yaki” tile work. Perfect for day-trippers and short-stay travelers.
• Auberge Tsubu la Gozzo (つぶらごっつぉ): Address: Aizumisato. A high-end culinary retreat that uses local Hongo pottery for every course. It is the pinnacle of the “Pottery x Gastronomy” movement. Reservations are required at least one week in advance.
• Munakata Kiln Lodging (宗像窯): One of the few kilns that offers traditional “Studio-Stay” programs for groups, allowing you to live amongst the ancient “Noborigama” (climbing kilns) that have burned since the Edo period.[10, 11]
• Aizuwakamatsu Washington Hotel: A convenient urban base located 15 minutes away, offering full hotel amenities for those who prefer to visit Hongo as a creative day-trip.
• Irori-no-Yado Ashina: A heritage-style inn in nearby Higashiyama that captures the same “Old Aizu” spirit, featuring traditional hearth dining.

The Aizu Hongo-yaki Experience

No guide to Hongo Onsen is complete without exploring the Setomachi District. This street is home to 13 active kilns, each with its own artistic philosophy.

• Munakata Kiln: Features the largest and oldest active “Noborigama” climbing kiln in Tohoku.[10, 11]
• Kinooto Kobo: A boutique studio run by young artists, known for their modern “Shinogi” patterns and animal motifs.[14, 19]
• Suigetsu Kiln: Specializes in durable, daily-use porcelain decorated with Aizu’s iconic Akabeko (red cow) and Okiagarikoboshi dolls.[14, 10]

Local Gastronomy: The “Clay and Cuisine” Fusion

Aizu-Jidori (Local Chicken): Often served at the village auberges, known for its deep, gamey flavor.
Nishin-no-Sanshozuke: Herring pickled with Sichuan pepper leaves—a traditional samurai preservation dish.
Vegan & Vegetarian Navigation:
Vegetarian travelers should focus on the “Studio Tea Ceremony.” Most kilns offer matcha paired with Seasonal Wagashi (vegan sweets made of bean paste and rice). In the Hongo area, request “Sansai-No-Kaiseki” (Mountain vegetable course) at Tsubu la Gozzo. Pro Tip: Buy a “Hongo Tea Strainer” as a souvenir—it is the birthplace of the ceramic tea strainer, considered the best in Japan.

Cultural & Historical Context

Aizu Hongo’s history began when Lord Ujisato Gamo invited tile workers from Hyogo to help refurbish Tsurugajo Castle.[14, 15] In 1645, master potter Genzaemon Mizuno discovered a unique clay vein in Hongo, launching the pottery industry in earnest.[14, 19] During the Edo period, Hongo-yaki was the official kiln of the Aizu Domain, used exclusively by nobles and samurais. The hot springs were developed to maintain the health of these vital artisans.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Yunokura is very accustomed to international visitors but remains a traditional community bath. Small tattoos covered by stickers are fine. For large pieces, visit during the early morning hours on weekdays to avoid crowds.
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available at the Pottery Hall and major studios, but mobile signal can be spotty in the narrow studio alleys. Download a PDF map of the kilns.
• Cash & Payments: While major kilns (like Munakata) accept credit cards, the smaller pottery workshops and local cafes are strictly cash-only.
• Language: Most kilns have English signage and pamphlets. However, for Pottery Workshops, using a translation app to follow the master’s instructions is highly recommended.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

The Aizu Hongo Morning Pottery Market in August 2026 will be the largest in a decade, featuring over 100 stalls starting at 4:00 AM. Additionally, Hongo has launched a new “Artisan’s Trail” E-bike rental program, connecting the pottery town to the ancient Isasumi Shrine via a dedicated cycle path.[20, 21]

Safety & Manners

Studio Etiquette: Never touch pottery displays without permission; they are fragile and often one-of-a-kind artworks.
Onsen Etiquette: Because the water is rich in minerals, it may be slippery; walk carefully on the tiled floors.
Wildlife: Boars are active in the mountains behind the kilns; stay on the marked studio paths at dawn.