Kita Onsen (北温泉)

Introduction: The Time-Traveling Spa Where the Great Tengu Rests

Deep within the ancient cedar forests of the upper Yosasa River basin lies Kita Onsen (北温泉). Founded during the Nara period in 770 AD, this legendary “Hidden Spring” (Hitou) is a living architectural timeline of Japan.[29, 30, 31] The ryokan consists of three interconnected wings from the **Edo, Meiji, and Showa eras**, creating a labyrinthine space that feels like a portal to the past. Famous globally as the primary filming location for the blockbuster movie **”Thermae Romae”** (serving as the heroine’s family home), Kita Onsen is centered around the mythical **Tengu-no-Yu (The Goblin’s Bath)**.[32, 33, 34] For the international traveler, it offers an unfiltered encounter with Japanese history. It is a place where you can soak in massive, outdoor “Swimming Baths,” gaze at a 1,200-year-old stone thrown by a mountain spirit, and experience the stoic, self-sufficient lifestyle of traditional hot spring healing. Kita Onsen is not a hotel; it is an adventure in absolute mineral purity.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Tengu” Torrent

The water at Kita Onsen is statistically remarkable, yielding a total of **1,620 liters per minute** from three proprietary sources.
Tengu-no-Yu (天狗の湯): The most iconic bath, featuring two massive wooden masks of the long-nosed mountain goblin. Legend says the Great Tengu discovered this source while traveling from Nikko to Mt. Haguro.[35, 36, 30] The water is a **Neutral Simple Spring (pH 6.3)**, highly prized for its “Freshness” as it flows directly from the rock into the tub.
The Swimming Bath (泳ぎ湯): A massive 10x15m outdoor thermal pool where swimwear is permitted. It is famous for its “Wild Atmosphere” and is perfect for children or those who find traditional indoor tubs too restrictive.
Me-no-Yu (目の湯): A specialized bath believed to improve vision and gastrointestinal health when consumed (tastes like weak kelp tea).

Top Recommended Stays: The Historical Wings

• Kita Onsen Ryokan (北温泉旅館): The only place to stay. You must choose your wing based on your preference for history:
  • Edo Wing: Dark, heavy beams and a nostalgic hearth (Irori). Best for “Hardcore” history fans.
  • Meiji Wing: Standard traditional style from the era of Japan’s modernization.
  • Showa Wing: Features stone-floored corridors and a unique “pale pink” wall aesthetic favored by photographers.[37, 38]
• Hotel Epinard Nasu (Nearby): Located 25 minutes away, providing a 4-star “Relief Base” for those who want to visit Kita Onsen as a day trip but prefer modern beds and buffets.[13, 14, 18]
• Minshuku Kusano (Nearby): A small, friendly guesthouse in the Yumoto district that offers a cozy, authentic local alternative.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Waterfalls and Goblins

Komadome Falls (駒止の滝): Located just above the onsen, this 20-meter waterfall is called “Nasu’s Best.” The observation deck provides a stunning view, especially during the autumn red-maple peak (mid-October).
Tengu-no-Nageishi (The Tengu’s Stone): A 10-ton boulder located near the Swimming Bath. Folklore says the Great Tengu threw this stone 1,200 years ago to unblock the hot spring source.[35, 30]
Mt. Sanbonyari Trailhead: Kita Onsen serves as the base camp for serious hikers climbing the highest peak of the Nasu range.[4, 39]

Local Gastronomy: Self-Catering and Bokka Bento

Kita Onsen preserves the ancient **Toji (healing stay)** culture, meaning guests often bring their own food.[40]
The “Jisuiba” Experience: A communal kitchen is available for all guests. It is fully equipped with gas, rice cookers, and pans. **You must bring all ingredients and seasonings.**[40]
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Bokka Bento: The inn offers a 950 JPY bento (Salmon or Veggie) by reservation. Specify *No Katsuo-dashi* in advance.[40]
Matsuoka (Nasu-machi): The premier vegan restaurant 20 mins away. Their **”Vegan Ice Cream Sandwiches”** are a popular reward after a long day of hiking and soaking.
Vegan Tip: Buy “Ashiji-sen Monaka”—coin-shaped sweet buns (naturally vegan) that were historically modeled after local mining coins.

Cultural & Historical Context: The Thermae Romae Legacy

Kita Onsen gained global fame when it was used as the home of **Mami Yamakoshi** in the movie *Thermae Romae*. The “Swimming Bath” is where the protagonist, Lucius, first experiences the “wild power” of Japanese outdoor bathing.[33, 34, 16] The inn prides itself on its “battered but beautiful” appearance, viewing the creaky floors and weathered wood not as age, but as the accumulated wisdom of 170 years of service.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• No Suitcases! (Important): The access path from the parking lot is a **steep 400m slope**. Do not bring heavy suitcases with wheels; use a backpack or small overnight bag.
• Cash & Payments: Kita Onsen is Strictly Cash Only. There is no credit card machine at 1,100m. Withdraw money at the 7-Eleven in Yumoto before you arrive.
• Tattoo Policy: Generally **Tattoo-neutral**. Because of its rugged, communal atmosphere, foreign guests with ink are rarely questioned, especially in the outdoor Swimming Bath.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

Winter Maintenance 2026: The facility will be **CLOSED every Tuesday from January to March 2026**. Special maintenance for the “Tengu” masks is also scheduled for February 2026.
Renovation: The Edo Wing’s thatched roof was partially repaired in late 2025 using traditional reeds from the Nasu marshlands.

Safety & Manners

Bathing Rule: Unlike luxury hotels, Kita Onsen **does not provide soap or shampoo** in the baths. You must bring your own or buy a set at the reception.
Winter Driving: The road to the Komadome parking lot requires **Snow Tires** between December and April. The walk down to the inn can be icy; we recommend using the provided “Easy Crampons” (簡易アイゼン) in winter.