Tsukiori Onsen (月居温泉)

Introduction: The Hidden Waterfall-Viewing Bath of Mount Tsukiori

Hidden in the narrow mountain pass above the upper cascades of Fukuroda Falls, at the base of the historic Mount Tsukiori, lies Tsukiori Onsen (月居温泉). This destination—a quiet, community-managed sanctuary—is defined by its absolute mineral purity and its status as a “local secret.” Centered around the landmark Takimi-no-yu Shirakiso (白木荘), Tsukiori Onsen offers a profound encounter with the authentic, unpretentious soul of Oku-Kuji.[29, 6] Unlike larger resorts, this bathhouse is operated directly by the neighborhood residents, preserving a degree of warmth and simplicity that is increasingly rare in Japan. The name “Tsukiori” refers to the mountain peak where ancient castle ruins still stand. For the international traveler, Tsukiori represents the “Final Frontier” of Oku-Kuji. It is a place to soak in “torori” (viscous) alkaline waters that flow directly from the bedrock, breathe in the high-oxygen air of the surrounding cedar forests, and find meditative peace away from the tourist crowds.[30, 31]

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Torori-Mochi” Texture of the Pass

The water at Tsukiori Onsen is geologically prized for its soft, syrupy touch and high mineral density. It is primarily a Sodium Bicarbonate ($NaHCO_3$) Spring.
The Viscous Sensation: With a $pH$ level of 8.9, the water acts as a natural exfoliant. It creates a “Torori” (viscous) sensation that coats the skin, providing immediate relief for dryness and irritation—earning it the nickname “The Spa for Every Illness”.[30, 37]
The Detox Mechanism: The bicarbonate ions react with skin proteins to stimulate blood circulation and assist in the management of chronic gastrointestinal issues when combined with the calming forest atmosphere.
The facility, Shirakiso, features an indoor cypress bath and a small, quiet outdoor tub overlooking the forest. To soak here as the mountain fog rolls through the pass is a sensory immersion that defines the “Hidden Ibaraki” experience.[6, 38]

Top Stays & Bases

• Tsukiori Onsen Takimi-no-yu Shirakiso (月居温泉 白木荘): Address: 2879-4 Konamase. The soul of the area. A simple, wooden inn managed by the local community. It is famous for its “Home-cooked Satoyama cuisine” featuring local river trout and wild mushrooms. It offers an elite cost-performance ratio for long-term “toji” (healing) stays.[31, 39, 40]
• Daigo Onsen Hotel Yamizo (Nearby): Located 15 minutes away, this is a larger public resort perfect for those who want the “Apple Bath” experience before heading to the quiet of Tsukiori.[6, 5]
• Tsukiori Kogen Campgrounds: For budget-conscious travelers and “Van-life” enthusiasts, several primitive campsites in the highlands allow you to stay in nature and drive to Tsukiori for your daily mineral soak.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Emerald Creeks and Castle Ruins

Mount Tsukiori Hiking: A 2-hour trail that takes you to the summit (404m) where the Tsukiori Castle Ruins (est. 14th century) offer a strategic view of the entire Kuji valley.
Namase Falls: Located just upstream from the more famous Fukuroda Falls, this site is quieter and offers a spectacular view of the “Four-tier” flow from above.[3, 41]
Wakui-no-Shimizu Spring: A mystical power spot producing 2,200 liters of pure mountain water per minute, located near the highland trail.
Tsukimachi Falls: Known as the “Looking-behind Waterfall,” where you can walk behind the curtain of water without getting wet.

Local Gastronomy: Mutton Curry and Highland Soba

Food in Tsukiori is defined by the high altitude and the purity of the local spring water.
Maca Mutton Curry: A local specialty at the highland rest stops featuring nutrient-rich Maca roots and marinated mutton—perfect for energy recovery after a hike.
Tsukiori Soba: Handmade buckwheat noodles ground using the clear water of the Namae River.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
Shirakiso Dining: They specialize in fresh regional vegetables. Specify “Plant-based only” when booking; they can provide a meal of salt-grilled mountain vegetables, konjac sashimi, and local rice.[38, 40]
Mみらんど袋田 (Nearby): A short drive away, this spot offers local apple treats and vegetable bento boxes that are naturally vegan-friendly.

Cultural & Historical Context: The Fortress of the Pass

The name “Tsukiori” (The Moon Residing) is rooted in the strategic military history of the Satake Clan. In the 14th century, the Tsukiori Castle was a vital outpost protecting the border between the Hitachi and Mutsu domains. The onsen culture was established to provide health and recovery for the foresters and residents who guarded this rugged high road. Today, Tsukiori remains a symbol of Oku-Kuji’s resilience—a place that preserves its traditional “Community Bond” while welcoming explorers seeking a “Nature and Mineral” detox.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Shirakiso is a community-run establishment. While they do not have a formal “tattoo ban,” they are a local facility. Small tattoos are generally accepted; for larger pieces, we recommend using the bath during the early morning hours (6:00 AM) or using a waterproof cover sticker as a courtesy.[43, 44]
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available in the lobby of Shirakiso, but do not expect high-speed signal in the guest rooms. Portable Wi-Fi is essential for navigating the mountain pass.
• Cash & Payments: Strictly Cash-Only (JPY) for the bathhouse and local farm stalls. Most ryokans do not accept international credit cards. Withdraw cash in central Daigo before ascending.[35, 45]
• Access: The bus service is infrequent. A Rental Car from Mito or Hitachi is highly recommended to see the various waterfalls and the castle ruins.[42, 46]

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Tsukiori launched the “Highland Starlight Walk,” a guided evening trek to the castle ruins followed by a late-night mineral soak. For the 2026 winter season, new “Snowshoe Meditation” tours are being planned, starting from the village trailhead.[47, 48]

Safety & Manners

Because the bicarbonate water is very viscous, the tiled floors are **extremely slippery**—walk with extreme care.[30] Be mindful of the local wildlife; Tsukiori is a sanctuary for the **Inoshishi (wild boar)**; stay on marked trails and avoid walking at dawn or dusk.[49] Finally, respect the quiet of the resident community; Tsukiori is a place where nature and village life exist in harmony.[38]