Nicchu Onsen (日中温泉)

Introduction: The Red “Phantom” Springs of the Secret Valley

Tucked away at the very northern border of Fukushima, where the mountains begin their ascent toward Yamagata, lies Nicchu Onsen (日中温泉). Once dubbed a “Phantom Onsen” due to its disappearance following the construction of the Nicchu Dam, it was rediscovered and reborn as a premier “Hikyō” (Secret Spring) destination. Characterized by its unique iron-rich, reddish-brown waters, Nicchu is the ultimate retreat for those who find beauty in seclusion. Here, there are no neon signs or souvenir rows—only the sound of the wind through the cedar forests and the silent majesty of the emerald dam lake nearby. It is a place where time slows down, allowing for a deep, mineral-fueled communion with nature.[10, 11]

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The Iron-Rich “Earth’s Blood”

The water at Nicchu Onsen is a scientific marvel. Classified as a Sodium hydrogen carbonate spring with a high concentration of ferrous iron (Fe2+), the water is clear at the source but turns a dramatic reddish-orange upon contact with the air.

The “Baking Soda” Smoothing Effect

Because of the high bicarbonate content, these waters act like natural soap, gently emulsifying skin oils and softening the keratin layer. This creates the famous “Silk Skin” sensation.

Drinking Therapy (Onsen-in)

Nicchu is one of the few places in Tohoku where the springs are officially certified for drinking therapy. Rich in minerals that support digestive health, sipping a small amount of the cooled spring water is said to aid in the recovery from anemia and gastric sensitivity.

Top Recommended Stay: Miya-no-yu

Nicchu Onsen Miya-no-yu (日中温泉 ゆもとや) is the primary gateway to this secret world.
The Experience: The inn is designed to maximize the view of the surrounding mountains. The outdoor baths (Rotenburo) are spectacular in autumn when the maple trees turn a fiery gold. Their dining service focuses on “Yama-no-kaiseki” (Mountain Kaiseki), featuring wild mushrooms, grilled river trout (Iwana), and the prized Aizu Beef. The atmosphere is quiet, sophisticated, and deeply private—an ideal spot for couples or solo travelers seeking a digital detox.

Walking Guide & Scenic Spots: The Dam and the Peaks

Nicchu Dam & Lake: A massive engineering feat that created a beautiful artificial lake. The walking paths around the lake offer breathtaking views of the reflective turquoise water against the seasonal foliage.

Forest Meditation Trails: Behind the ryokan, several marked trails lead into the virgin forests of the Iide range. Carry a “Bear Bell” as this is deep wildlife territory.

Star Gazing: Because of its altitude and zero light pollution, Nicchu is one of Fukushima’s best spots for observing the Milky Way during the clear winter nights.

Local Gastronomy: The Bounty of the High Forest

Food here is about survival and seasonality.
Sansai (Wild Mountain Vegetables): In spring, try the tempura made from Koshiabura or Fuki-no-to.
Vegan & Vegetarian Adaptations:
The ryokan at Nicchu is highly experienced in catering to dietary needs. Request the “Shojin-style” multi-course meal (Zen-Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) at least 3 days in advance. Mention “Gokoku-mai” (five-grain rice) to experience the local agricultural diversity.

Cultural & Historical Context

Historically, Nicchu was a “secret spring” used by locals to heal from the grueling labor of forest clearing. After the original source was submerged by the dam in the late 20th century, the community successfully drilled a new source to preserve their heritage. This “Rebirth” of Nicchu is a symbol of the region’s commitment to preserving its natural and cultural identity.[14, 10]

Practical Travel Tips

• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available at the ryokan, but expect zero mobile signal once you head out on the hiking trails.
• Language Barrier: This is a very traditional area. While staff are helpful, using a translation app is highly recommended for smooth communication.[15]
• Winter Access: The road to Nicchu is subject to heavy snow. If you are not experienced in winter driving, use the ryokan’s shuttle bus from Kitakata Station.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

For the 2026 season, Nicchu Dam is launching the “Lake Kayaking Wellness Program,” allowing visitors to paddle to hidden coves accessible only by water, followed by a thermal soak. This is part of the region’s new “Sustainable Adventure Tourism” initiative.[16, 6]

Safety & Manners

The water is rich in iron and can stain light-colored swimwear or towels; use the dark-colored towels provided by the inn. Wildlife Notice: 2025 has seen high bear activity; never leave food scraps near the lake trails. Finally, the water temperature can be high; enter slowly to avoid “Onsen-shoko” (thermal shock).