Hijiori Onsen (肘折温泉)

Introduction: The Ancient Caldera of Perpetual Healing

Deep in the heart of the Dewa Mountains, at the bottom of a volcanic caldera formed 10,000 years ago, lies Hijiori Onsen (肘折温泉). Known as the “Toji base of the gods,” this village is legendary for its surreal landscape and record-breaking snowfall—often exceeding 4 meters in mid-winter. Hijiori translates to “Broken Elbow,” a name derived from an 807 AD legend where a monk was healed by a Jizo deity in these very springs. Today, Hijiori remains one of the few places in Japan where you can still experience the true “Toji” lifestyle—long-term stays for thermal therapy. For the international traveler, Hijiori Onsen is the ultimate “Slow Travel” destination. It is a place of wooden lattice-work streets, morning markets (Asa-ichi) that have run for centuries, and waters so rich in minerals they are called “The Bath of Rebirth.” As Yamagata is designated a must-visit for 2026 by National Geographic, Hijiori represents the purest expression of Japan’s volcanic heritage and community resilience.

Key Information Table

Address	〒996-0301 山形県最上郡大蔵村大字南山 / Minamiyama, Ohkura Village, Mogami-gun, Yamagata
Google Maps	View on Google Maps
Mapcode for GPS	569 572 112*78 (Village Center / Bus Stop)
Spring Quality	Sodium-Chloride / Hydrogen Carbonate Spring (Highly Mineralized)
Benefits	Exceptional for skin beautification (Peeling effect), chronic muscular pain, and digestive health (when drunk).
Access	55-minute bus from JR Shinjo Station (Yamagata Shinkansen terminal).
Number of Ryokans	Over 20 traditional inns ranging from rustic healing lodges to modern resorts.
Day-trip Bathing	Public bath “Kami-no-yu” open 6:00 AM – 9:00 PM; Fee: ~400 JPY.

The Healing Waters: The “Bicarbonate Silk” of the Caldera

The water at Hijiori Onsen is a geological treasure, emerging from the caldera floor at near-boiling temperatures. It is a Sodium-Chloride Hydrogen Carbonate Spring.

The “Toji” Science:

• Skin-Softening: The high concentration of bicarbonate ions ($HCO_3^-$) acts as a natural exfoliant, softening old skin cells and dirt. This is why Hijiori is a legendary “Spring of Beauty” that leaves the skin feeling like porcelain.
• Metabolic Support: When consumed at designated drinking stations, the mineral water is said to improve liver function and help with chronic constipation.

The village center features the iconic Kami-no-yu (Bath of the Gods), where a statue of Jizo sits at the entrance, guarding the source. To soak here at dawn, as the steam rises into the caldera air, is a spiritual experience that transcends modern wellness.

Top 5 Recommended Stays: Pilgrims and Poets

• Motoya Ryokan (元河原湯): Address: 454-1 Hijiori. Known for its creative local cuisine and warm, family-run atmosphere. It offers a modern interpretation of the “Toji” stay, making it highly accessible for international travelers.
• Maruya Ryokan (丸屋): A beautifully preserved wooden inn with Taisho-era charm. It is famous for its sophisticated “Mountain Vegetable Kaiseki” and its private, historical tubs.
• Hijiori-no-Yado (肘折の宿): A classic “healing lodge” that specializes in long-term stays. Perfect for those who want to experience the traditional Toji lifestyle with simple, healthy meals.
• Tomiya (富屋): A quiet, riverside inn known for its spectacular views of the snow walls in winter.
• Matsunoya (松の家): A historic inn with deep ties to the Hijiori morning market culture. It offers a very authentic, unfiltered look at village life.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Morning Markets and Snow Giants

Hijiori Morning Market (Asa-ichi): From spring to late autumn (5:30 AM), the streets fill with local grandmothers selling wild herbs, mushrooms, and handmade mochi. It is the social heart of the village.
Hijiori Snow Wall (Yuki-no-Hekigane): In late winter, the snow cleared from the caldera floor creates walls over **10 meters high**—one of the most surreal sights in all of Japan.
Jizo Cave (Jizo-kura): A 20-minute hike from the village leads to the legendary spot where the monk was healed. The view from the cave over the caldera is spectacular.

Local Gastronomy: The Soul of the Earth

Food in Hijiori is defined by the caldera’s unique micro-climate.
Signature Dish: Try the “Caldera Ramen”—topped with local mushrooms and taro.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: 
For Vegans: Hijiori is a **Sansai (Mountain Vegetable) Paradise**. Most ryokans offer a “Healing Mountain Feast” that is naturally meat-free. Be sure to specify “No fish stock” (Katsuo-dashi nuki) when booking. The local “Hijiori Tofu” is famous for being dense and rich, often served with nothing but salt and freshly grated ginger.

Cultural & Historical Context

Hijiori has remained largely unchanged for over a century. The village’s isolation within the mountains has protected its unique cultural identity. It is a place of “Trust and Community,” where the public baths still use an honor system and neighbors share the caldera’s heat to dry their crops. In **2026**, Hijiori is being recognized as a model for **Sustainable Community-Led Tourism**.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: As a traditional Toji village, Hijiori is relatively conservative. While small tattoos may be overlooked, we highly recommend booking an inn with a private bath or using a cover-up sticker to ensure a respectful experience.
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available in the newer wings of ryokans, but the caldera’s steep walls can sometimes affect mobile data. It is a perfect place for a “Digital Detox.”
• Cash & Payments: Hijiori is **strictly cash-only**. There are no ATMs in the village. Withdraw all necessary JPY at Shinjo Station before boarding the bus.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

The **Snow Shoveling Race 2026** will be held on **February 22, 2026**. This unique event celebrates the village’s legendary snowfall and is a major photo opportunity. Additionally, Hijiori has recently launched a “Caldera Meditation Walk” guided by local residents to promote sustainable mental health tourism.

Safety & Manners

Snow Safety: Hijiori has some of the **heaviest snow on earth**. If visiting in winter, never walk directly under the eaves of buildings, as falling snow (Yuki-oroshi) can be lethal.
Toji Etiquette: Respect the “Quiet Hours” after 9:00 PM. Many guests are here for medical recovery and value the silence of the caldera.