Tomamae Onsen (苫前温泉)

Introduction: The Town of Windmills and the Spirit of the Bear

Nestled along the wild Rumoi coast, the town of Tomamae is a place where the primal past of Hokkaido meets a sustainable future. Tomamae Onsen (苫前温泉), known by its facility name “Fu-Wari,” is a sanctuary defined by dramatic elements: the constant energy of the Sea of Japan and the towering presence of dozens of white wind turbines that line the coastal bluffs. Tomamae is most famous historically for the “Sankebetsu Brown Bear Incident”—the most intense bear encounter in Japanese history—but today, it is a peaceful wellness hub. For the international traveler, Tomamae Onsen offers a profound sensory experience: soaking in hot, saline waters while watching the giant windmills rotate slowly against a fiery sunset. It is a destination of resilience, ecological innovation, and a thermal intensity that warms you to the soul.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Fu-Wari” Salt Wrap

The water at Tomamae Onsen is a powerful Sodium-Chloride Strong Saline Spring. Like many of the “fossil seawater” springs on the northern coast, the mineral concentration here is higher than human bodily fluids, allowing for rapid absorption. The water has a slight amber tint and a warm, earthy aroma. The name “Fu-Wari” refers to the feeling of lightness and relaxation you feel after a soak. When you leave the bath, the salt forms a microscopic crystalline layer on your skin, which traps moisture and body heat for hours. The highlight of the facility is the Outdoor Rotenburo, which sits on an elevated terrace overlooking the Tomamae harbor. From here, you have an unobstructed view of the majestic “Teuri-fuji” (Mt. Rishiri) on clear days and the mesmerizing rotation of the coastal wind farm.

Top Recommended Stay: Tomamae Onsen Fu-Wari

• Tomamae Onsen Fu-Wari (とままえ温泉ふわっと): The heart of the area’s wellness. This modern, lodge-style facility offers spacious Japanese and Western rooms. The dining hall is a major attraction, serving “Sea Urchin (Uni)” in summer and high-quality local beef. It is highly rated for its “Sunset Views” and is a favorite for road-trippers and families exploring the Ororon Line.
• Local Minshuku in Tomamae: Several small, family-run guesthouses are available in the town center, offering a chance to interact with the local community and learn about the town’s bear-hunting history.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: History and Energy

Sankebetsu Brown Bear Incident Reconstruction Site: Located 30 minutes inland, this is a meticulously reconstructed site of the 1915 incident. It features a massive model of a brown bear and traditional pioneer houses. It is a sobering and fascinating look at the struggle of Hokkaido’s early settlers.
Tomamae Wind Farm (Wind Drive): You can drive right up to the base of the massive turbines. The view of the windmills against the blue Sea of Japan is one of the most iconic “modern” landscapes in Hokkaido.
Tomamae Green Beach: A peaceful beach near the onsen, popular for gentle coastal walks and driftwood collecting.

Local Gastronomy: The Bounty of Wind and Sea

Tomamae’s food is a mix of fresh seafood and high-altitude vegetables.
Tomamae Uni (Sea Urchin): During the summer (July-August), the local Uni-don is world-class, rivaling that of Shakotan or Rishiri.
Hokkaido Beef: The onsen restaurant serves steaks and beef bowls from cows raised on the breezy Tomamae pastures.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: Tomamae is a producer of Pumpkin and Sweetcorn. At the onsen, request the “Vegetable Curry” (ensure no meat stock) or fresh Soba.
For Vegans: Buy the local “Tomamae Corn” (Yaki-toukibi) sold at the Roadside Station—it is naturally 100% vegan and incredibly sweet. We also recommend the local Hokkaido Natto (fermented soybeans) sold in the souvenir shop.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Tomamae” comes from the Ainu word “Te-oma-nay”, meaning “river with a place to cross.” Historically, the town was a vital frontier outpost. The story of the “Great Bear” of Sankebetsu is part of the town’s identity, representing a deep respect for the power of nature. Today, that respect is channeled into renewable energy, with Tomamae being a leader in wind power in Japan. The onsen serves as a place for the community to gather and for travelers to experience the harmonious balance of history and modern ecology.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Fu-Wari is a community-focused facility and is generally tolerant of international guests. Small tattoos are fine; for large pieces, using a rash guard or cover sticker is recommended as a courtesy to the local elderly residents.
• Language Support: Basic English signs for the bath rules are provided. The staff are very welcoming and use translation devices for complex check-ins.
• Cash & Payments: The resort accepts major credit cards for room stays. However, the day-trip bath ticket machine and the bear reconstruction site fee are cash-only (JPY).
• Bear Awareness: While the reconstruction site is a museum, the surrounding area is still active bear territory. If you go hiking or walking in the inland forests, always wear a bear bell and stay on the designated paths.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Tomamae Onsen launched a “Windmill Starlight Tour,” featuring guided night walks to the wind farm followed by a late-night onsen soak. For the 2026 season, the onsen is upgrading its “Viewing Deck” to include heated seats so guests can watch the winter sunset in comfort before entering the bath.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always rinse your body thoroughly before entering the tub. Because the water is highly saline, walk carefully on the tiled floors as they can be slippery. If you are driving on the coastal Ororon Line, be aware of “Strong Crosswinds”—keep a firm grip on the steering wheel, especially near the windmills. Finally, respect the quiet nature of the outdoor bath; it is a place for peaceful contemplation of the wide-open Hokkaido horizon.