Sakurano Onsen (桜野温泉)

Introduction: The Red Iron Sanctuary of the Kumaishi Deep Forest

Hidden deep within the southwestern mountains of Yakumo Town, in the historic Kumaishi district, lies Sakurano Onsen (桜野温泉). This hot spring—centered around the legendary “Kumaishi Hibari-so”—is the definition of a “Hitou” (hidden hot spring) that prioritizes geological purity and physical restoration above all else. Known for its intense “Aka-yu” (Red Water), Sakurano Onsen has served as a sanctuary for those seeking to cure chronic ailments for over a century. For the international traveler, Sakurano represents the “True North” of thermal healing: a place of profound silence where the air is filtered through ancient beech forests, and the water carries the powerful iron and salt minerals of the volcanic earth. If you seek an escape from the polished resort bubbles and a chance to immerse yourself in the unrefined, therapeutic spirit of Hokkaido’s mountains, Sakurano Onsen is your essential destination.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Medicine” of the Red Earth

The water at Sakurano Onsen is geologically distinct in the Oshima Peninsula. It is a powerful Sodium-Chloride / Bicarbonate Spring characterized by its extremely high iron content.
The Visuals: When the water emerges from the earth at approximately 50°C, it is crystal clear, but upon contact with the mountain air, the iron oxidizes, turning the tubs a deep, opaque reddish-brown or “golden amber.”
The Sensation: This “Red Water” is legendary for its ability to improve blood circulation and core body temperature. The high salt content creates a “mineral film” on the skin, which prevents the evaporation of sweat—this is why Sakurano is celebrated as a “Bath of Heat” (Netsu-no-yu). The bicarbonate ions also provide a natural exfoliation, leaving the skin feeling firm and hydrated. The facility features a rustic indoor tub and a small, peaceful outdoor Rotenburo where you can hear the sound of the Kenichi River rushing nearby.

Top Recommended Stay: Kumaishi Hibari-so

• Kumaishi Hibari-so (熊石ひばり荘): The only lodge in the valley. It is a traditional Japanese inn that prioritizes “Toji” (long-term healing) and silence. The rooms are simple tatami spaces with views of the virgin beech forest. The highlight of staying here is the dinner, which features world-class Kumaishi Abalone and seasonal wild vegetables (sansai). Note: Guest rooms do not have private bathrooms or Wi-Fi; the experience is about returning to the basics of life in the mountains.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Forests and Sea Vistas

Kenichi River Walk: A gentle trail follows the river upstream through ancient maple and birch trees. In autumn, the foliage is a brilliant mix of fire-red and gold.
Kumaishi Fishing Port: A 20-minute drive back to the coast, where you can see the rugged Sea of Japan and buy freshly dried kelp or seafood from local stalls.
Mt. Kariba: For serious hikers, the trailhead to the highest peak in the Hiyama region is reachable by a 30-minute drive, offering panoramic views over the Sea of Japan.

Local Gastronomy: The Kingdom of Abalone

Kumaishi (the wider district) is known for the highest quality Abalone (Awabi) in Hokkaido.
Abalone Feast: Try the “Abalone Steak” or “Abalone Sashimi” served at the onsen; the meat is incredibly firm and sweet.
Mountain Veggie Tempura: In spring, the lodge serves “Urui” and “Fuki” gathered from the Sakurano hills.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival:
For Vegans: Being a remote mountain lodge, plant-based options are limited.
For Vegans: We recommend bringing your own protein and snacks from Hakodate or Esashi. At the onsen lodge, you can request “Mountain Vegetable Soba”—specify “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish dashi). The local “Yakumo Potatoes” are world-class—simply steamed with salt, they are a perfect 100% vegan snack.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Sakurano” (Cherry Field) refers to the wild cherry trees that once lined the riverbanks. Historically, the area was a vital territory for Ainu hunters before being explored by pioneers in the late 19th century. The onsen was officially developed as a healing retreat for the early settlers who braved the harsh winters. Today, it remains a symbol of rural Hokkaido’s resilience—a place that has survived the closure of the local coal mines and schools by remaining true to its mineral roots.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: As a secluded and traditional “Hitou,” Sakurano is generally very tolerant of tattoos. The staff and regular guests are focused on the quality of the water and the peace of the mountain. Full ink pieces are rarely an issue here if the guest is respectful.
• Connectivity: Zero mobile signal inside the valley. There is no Wi-Fi in the guest rooms. Prepare for an “offline” experience. Download your Mapcode and offline maps before leaving the town center.
• Cash Only: This is a traditional lodge in the mountains. Credit cards are not accepted. Bring sufficient cash for your room and bathing fees. The nearest ATM is 25km away in central Kumaishi.
• Access: A rental car is absolutely mandatory. The road to the onsen is narrow and winding. Winter access: The road is plowed but narrow; expert winter driving skills and a 4WD vehicle are required.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Sakurano Onsen introduced a “Heritage Meditation Stay,” providing guests with traditional Japanese calligraphy kits and forest-view reading nooks. For the 2026 season, the lodge is planning to refurbish its outdoor “footbath” (Ashiyu) to be accessible 24 hours for overnight guests to enjoy the nocturnal sounds of the mountain stream.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always sit on the provided stools while washing and do not splash water. Because the water has a high iron content, it can stain white towels; use the facility’s rental towels if possible. Be “Bear Aware”—carry a bear bell if you are walking on the trails near the lodge. Finally, respect the quiet; many guests stay here for the silence of the forest, so keep conversations in the communal baths to a respectful whisper.