Ruma Onsen (留真温泉)

Introduction: The Hidden Nuru-Nuru Gem of the Urahoro Forest

Tucked deep within a quiet mountain valley in the Urahoro district, where the forest remains primeval and the air is thick with the scent of spruce, lies Ruma Onsen (留真温泉). This is one of Hokkaido’s most cherished “Hitou” (hidden hot springs), known among onsen purists for one singular, breathtaking characteristic: its water is incredibly slippery. With a pH level that often exceeds 9.5, Ruma Onsen offers a sensation of being submerged in liquid silk or high-end beauty serum. For the international traveler, Ruma Onsen represents the height of “Forest Therapy.” It is a place of profound silence, far from the primary tourist trails, where you can soak in mineral-rich “Beauty Waters” while watching Ezo deer graze just outside the window. It is the perfect choice for those seeking a deep physical reset and an authentic encounter with the quiet, unpolished soul of eastern Hokkaido.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Natural Soap” of the Valley

The water at Ruma Onsen is geologically fascinating. Classified as a Strongly Alkaline Simple Spring, its pH level is one of the highest in Hokkaido.
The Nuru-Nuru Sensation: As soon as you submerge, your skin feels remarkably slippery—a sensation known in Japan as “Nuru-nuru.” This occurs because the alkaline water reacts with the natural oils on your skin to create a mild, soap-like effect that gently dissolves old keratin and deep-cleanses the pores.
Thermal Retention: Despite being a simple spring, it has an unusually high capacity to keep the body warm. The facility features a large indoor panoramic tub and a beautiful outdoor Rotenburo built with local volcanic stones. The water is 100% natural (Gensen Kakenagashi), used without any heating or dilution, preserving its pure forest energy.

Top Recommended Stay: Urahoro Ruma Onsen Lodge

• Urahoro-cho Ruma Onsen (うらほろ留真温泉): The only lodge in the valley. It is a clean, modern, and quiet facility that prioritizes the thermal experience. It offers a limited number of Japanese-style rooms, ensuring an intimate and peaceful stay. The lodge is famous for its “Mountain Bounty” dinners, featuring local Urahoro venison and seasonal wild vegetables. It is the perfect retreat for solo travelers and writers seeking a “Digital Detox.”
• Urahoro Town Guesthouses: Located 45 minutes away in the town center, several small business hotels offer an alternative for those wanting to visit Ruma as a day-trip.

Must-Visit Neighborhood Spots: Forests and Horizons

Urahoro Forest Park: Surrounding the onsen, this park offers rugged walking trails and a peaceful pond. In autumn, the foliage is a brilliant mix of fire-red and gold.
Cape Tokachi (Tokachi-misaki): A short drive to the coast brings you to this dramatic cape overlooking the Pacific Ocean, famous for its lighthouse and sweeping views.
Ruma Forest Road: For adventurous drivers, the forest roads around the onsen offer a chance to see rare Hokkaido wildlife, including the Blakiston’s Fish Owl (if you are very lucky).

Local Gastronomy: The Bounty of Urahoro

Urahoro is a hub for high-quality forest products and wild game.
Urahoro Venison (Ezo Shika): The town is famous for its sustainable venison processing. Try the “Venison Stew” or grilled steaks at the onsen restaurant.
Haskap Berries: A local super-fruit rich in Vitamin C. You can find Haskap jam and soda at the onsen gift shop.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: Urahoro is a major producer of Hokkaido Soybeans.
For Vegans: Try the local handmade Tofu and “Soymilk Sweets.” At the onsen restaurant, request the “Mountain Vegetable Soba”—specify “Katsuo-dashi nuki” (No fish dashi) to the chef. The local supermarkets in Urahoro town carry fresh seasonal vegetables for self-catering.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Ruma” comes from the Ainu word referring to the “steaming river.” Historically, the area was a vital territory for Ainu hunters who used the hot springs to heal their dogs and themselves after long winter hunts. During the Meiji era, it became a center for pioneering forestry. The onsen was officially developed as a place of health for the community in the late 20th century, and it remains a symbol of Urahoro’s commitment to “Forest Wellness” and the preservation of its pristine water resources.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: Ruma Onsen is a very local, traditional facility. While the staff are polite, large, visible tattoos should be covered with patches if possible. If you are staying at the lodge, using the bath during early morning or late evening when it is least crowded is a respectful approach.
• Connectivity: Zero Signal inside the valley. There is no mobile reception at the onsen and very limited Wi-Fi in the lobby. Prepare for a peaceful, offline experience. Download your maps and notify your family before leaving the town center.
• Language Support: Almost no English is spoken. We recommend having a translation app and a polite smile. The staff are used to independent travelers from the nearby Obihiro area and are very kind.
• Cash Only: Most facilities in the Ruma area are strictly cash-only (JPY). Ensure you withdraw money in central Urahoro or Obihiro before heading into the mountains.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Ruma Onsen introduced a “Forest Meditation Program,” providing English-language maps for a 1-hour quiet loop through the birch forest surrounding the lodge. For the 2026 season, the onsen is upgrading its outdoor bath to include a “Star-gazing Deck,” allowing guests to watch the Milky Way in total silence after their soak.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always sit on the provided stools while washing and do not splash water. Because the water is strongly alkaline and very slippery, walk carefully near the tubs—falls are common for those not used to “Nuru-nuru” water. Be “Bear Aware”—carry a bear bell if you are exploring the forest trails alone. Finally, respect the quiet; many guests stay here for the silence of the forest, so keep conversations in the communal baths to a soft whisper.