Moseushi Onsen (妹背牛温泉)

Moseushi Onsen: The Pure Thermal Oasis in Hokkaido’s Golden Rice Heartland

Nestled in the tranquil Sorachi region, Moseushi Onsen (妹背牛温泉)—affectionately known by its facility name “Peperu”—is a sanctuary for those who want to experience the authentic, rural heart of Hokkaido. Moseushi is a town defined by its award-winning rice production, and its onsen is equally high-quality. Unlike many resorts that dilute their water, Moseushi prides itself on its high-volume, 100% natural flow mineral springs. For international travelers journeying between Sapporo and Asahikawa, this is a perfect detour to see the “real Japan.” It is a place where time slows down, where the air is scented with ripening rice in autumn, and where the thermal water provides a deep, soulful cleansing that mass-market resorts simply cannot match.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: “Peperu” and the Fountain of Youth

The name “Peperu” comes from the Ainu-inspired concept of “water” and “shining.” The spring at Moseushi is a Sodium-Chloride/Bicarbonate spring, often referred to as “the bath of youth.” Bicarbonate ions help to soften the keratin layer of the skin, gently removing dirt and oils, while the salt content ensures that you stay warm long after your soak. The facility is surprisingly modern, featuring a massive indoor hall with multiple tubs, including a “Bubbling Bath” and a “Cooling Bath.” The outdoor bath (Rotenburo) offers a view of the vast Sorachi sky, which becomes a blanket of stars on clear nights. Because the water is pumped from 1,500 meters underground and used without dilution, the mineral potency is exceptionally high.

Inbound Traveler Guide: Connectivity, Tattoos, and Local Vibe

• Tattoo Policy: Moseushi is very traditional but quiet. Small tattoos are generally ignored. For larger tattoos, it is recommended to use the facility during “off-peak” hours (weekdays between 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM) or use a rash guard if possible. There are no private baths here, so self-management is key.
• English Support: Limited. However, the hospitality of the rural staff is legendary. They are used to independent travelers and will use gestures and simple charts to explain the rules. Having a “Google Lens” app to translate the restaurant menu is highly recommended.
• Cashless & Payments: The front desk accepts major credit cards for overnight stays, but the day-trip bath and the restaurant’s meal ticket machine are cash-only (JPY). Make sure to have 500-yen and 1,000-yen notes ready.
• Accessibility: The facility is mostly on one level and is very friendly for elderly travelers or those with mobility issues.

Dietary Needs: The Best Rice in Japan

Moseushi rice is consistently ranked as “Special A” (the highest grade) in Japan.
Vegetarian/Vegan Friendly: This is a great spot for vegans because of the focus on high-quality grains. You can order “Onigiri” (rice balls) made with the local Nanatsuboshi or Yumepirika rice. Simply ask for “Shio-musubi” (salt only) to ensure it’s vegan.
Local Gourmet: The “Moseushi Rice Bowl” topped with seasonal vegetables is a local favorite. For vegetarians, the local handmade Soba (buckwheat noodles) is excellent—just ask for “Soy sauce only” if you want to avoid the fish-based dipping sauce.

Walking Guide & Rural Attractions

Moseushi is best explored at a slow pace.
Rice Paddy Art: During the summer, the town often creates “Tanbo Art,” where different colored rice plants are used to create massive pictures in the fields.
Curling Hall: Surprisingly, Moseushi is a “Curling Town.” You can visit the Moseushi Curling Hall nearby and sometimes watch local teams practicing this unique Olympic sport.
Uryu River: A peaceful river walk is just minutes from the onsen, perfect for birdwatching or enjoying the sunset over the fields.

Practical Travel Tips: The Train Detour

By Train: Moseushi is on the JR Hakodate Main Line. It’s a 10-minute walk from Moseushi Station to the onsen. This makes it a very rare “train-accessible” rural onsen.
By Car: It is about 15 minutes from the Fukagawa Interchange on the Hokkaido Expressway.
Luggage: There are coin lockers in the onsen lobby for your bags, but they are small. Large suitcases should be left at the front desk or in your rental car.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Moseushi Onsen Peperu launched a “Rice Harvesting Experience” package for international tourists, where you can help with the harvest in September and enjoy a “Freshly Harvested Rice Feast” at the onsen. For the 2026 winter season, they are planning to introduce a “Snow-viewing Sauna” with an outdoor cold bath carved directly into the snow.

Safety & Manners

This is a quiet town; please avoid loud behavior in the public areas. In the bath, always sit on the provided stools while showering and never let your hair touch the bathwater. If you are walking from the station in winter, be extremely careful of “ice ridges” on the sidewalk—the snow can be very deep and the paths narrow.