Kawamata Onsen (川又温泉)

Introduction: The Ultimate “Phantom” Wild Bath of the Hakodate Wilderness

Hidden deep within the primeval forests of the Hakodate hills, at the end of a rugged 3-kilometer hike through dense birch and spruce, lies Kawamata Onsen (川又温泉). This is the definition of a “Phantom Onsen” (Maboroshi-no-yu)—a natural hot spring that emerges directly into a hand-carved stone tub in a river valley, miles from the nearest road. There are no buildings, no staff, and no entry fees—only the roar of the mountain stream and the raw energy of the earth. For the international adventurer and the true “Onsen Hunter,” Kawamata Onsen represents the peak of thermal discovery in Hokkaido. It is a place of profound solitude, where the boundary between humanity and the volcanic spirit of the north completely dissolves. If you seek an experience that requires effort, grit, and a love for the unpolished wilderness, Kawamata is your spiritual destination.

Key Information Table

The Healing Waters: The “Tepid Silk” of the Deep Valley

The water at Kawamata Onsen is a Weak Alkaline Simple Spring. Unlike the boiling sulfur springs of the central mountains, Kawamata is a “low-temperature” spring, emerging at approximately 30-34°C.
The Experience: Because the temperature is gentle, you can soak for hours without fatigue. The water is incredibly slippery and soft, acting as a natural liquid moisturizer.
The Setting: The bath consists of a small, rectangular concrete tub built decades ago into the rocky bank of the Nobechi River. As you soak, your eye level is even with the rushing water and the ferns of the forest floor. It is a sensory immersion into the “Hokkaido Zen” atmosphere, where the temperature of the water and the air create a weightless sensation of being one with the woods.

Top Recommended Bases & Logistics

Since you cannot stay at Kawamata Onsen, travelers use the nearby resorts as their base camp.

• Onuma Quasi-National Park Area: Located 30 minutes away. Staying at the Hakodate Onuma Prince Hotel or local guesthouses provides the necessary logistics for a day-trip hike.
• Hakodate City Hotels: Many travelers stay in the city and rent a 4WD vehicle for a daytime expedition to the Nanae mountains.
• Higashi-Onuma Campground: For budget adventurers, this nearby campsite on the shores of Lake Onuma allows you to stay in nature and drive to the Kawamata trailhead at dawn.

The Trekking Experience: The Path to the Hidden Tub

The journey to Kawamata Onsen is as rewarding as the soak.
The Trailhead: Located at the very end of a gravel forest road in Nanae Town. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended to reach the parking spot.
The Hike: The 3km trail is mostly flat but can be muddy and requires crossing small streams. You will walk through ancient forests of Ezo spruce and Japanese maple.
The Reward: The sight of the steam rising from the small tub in the middle of a green forest clearing is a world-class “Eureka” moment for any hiker.

Local Gastronomy for Explorers: The “Wild” Lunch

There are NO facilities, shops, or water sources at the onsen. Your nutrition must be self-contained.
Hakodate “Bento”: Before heading to the trail, buy a “Lucky Pierrot” burger or local seafood bento in Hakodate.
Vegetarian/Vegan Survival: Pack trail mix, local Nanae Apples, and onigiri.
Pro Tip: Buy the local “Onuma Beer” at the lake area to enjoy cold (non-alcoholic version recommended if hiking) by placing it in the cold river water while you soak. Important: Carry out all trash (Leave No Trace).

Cultural & Historical Context

Kawamata Onsen was used by foresters and Ainu hunters for generations. The small concrete tub was reportedly built by a local resident in the mid-20th century to preserve the spring for the community. It remains a symbol of the “Hidden Hokkaido”—a place that hasn’t been commercialized because the forest protects it. It is maintained by a loose network of local volunteers who clean the tub and ensure the trail is passable. Today, it stands as a monument to the unrefined, raw beauty of the Oshima Peninsula.

Practical Travel Tips for International Visitors

• Tattoo Policy: As a wild, outdoor spot with no staff, there are no restrictions on tattoos. This is a haven for travelers with ink.
• Bathing Style: Kawamata is a mixed-gender “No-yu” (Wild bath). While locals may bathe naked, wearing swimwear or a wrap is highly recommended for international visitors to maintain a comfortable environment in the open forest. There are no changing rooms; use a large towel or change behind a tree.
• Hiking Safety: The trail can be slippery after rain. Sturdy hiking boots and a bear bell are mandatory. This is active brown bear territory. Do not hike alone if possible.
• Seasonality: Strictly a summer/autumn destination. In winter, the forest road is not plowed and the trail is buried in 2 meters of snow.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In 2025, Nanae Town installed a new English-language warning sign at the forest road entrance to assist international hikers with bear safety and trail etiquette. For the 2026 season, local volunteers are planning a “Wild Bath Cleaning Day,” inviting trekkers to help scrub the stone tub in exchange for a guided botanical talk.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, **never use soap or shampoo**—the runoff goes directly into the pristine mountain river. Keep the water pure for the trout and wildlife downstream. Always rinse your feet in the river before entering the tub to keep it free of forest debris. Finally, respect the power of the river—if the water levels are high after heavy rain, do not attempt to reach the tub, as the trail can be dangerous. The forest is a sacred space; leave it exactly as you found it.