Daisetsu Kogen Onsen (大雪高原温泉)

Daisetsu Kogen Onsen: Soaking in the Heart of Japan’s Earliest Autumn Colors and Bear Sanctuary

Daisetsu Kogen Onsen is perhaps the most famous “limited-season” hot spring in Japan, located at a high-altitude trailhead deep within the Daisetsuzan National Park. Situated at 1,260 meters, this remote outpost is open for only 120 days a year, from mid-June to mid-October. It is the gateway to the legendary Numa-meguri (Pond Loop) trail, a 4-5 hour hike through 16 pristine mountain tarns that boast the earliest and most spectacular autumn colors in the country. The area is also a core habitat for the Ussuri brown bear, making it a unique destination where human activity is strictly regulated to coexist with the wild. For the traveler seeking a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with raw nature and “healing steam” at the roof of Hokkaido, Kogen Onsen provides a profound and humbling wilderness experience.

Key Information

The Healing Waters: Volcanic Acidity and “Mirror-Pond” Minerals

The waters of Kogen Onsen are scientifically notable for their strong acidity and high sulfur content, typical of springs located directly above active geothermal veins. These “Medicine Springs” promote intense peripheral circulation and are traditionally used to treat stubborn skin conditions and vascular issues. The source temperature is high, requiring a sophisticated cooling system of wooden conduits to deliver the water to the tubs at a comfortable 42°C without dilution. The smell of sulfur is pervasive here, a constant reminder of the volcanic furnace beneath the mountain. Because the water is 100% natural flow (Gensen Kakenagashi), it contains “Yunohana” (mineral flowers)—white flakes of sulfur that act as a natural exfoliant for the skin.

Top Recommended Stays & Bases

• Daisetsu Kogen Sanso (The Primary Lodge): A rustic wooden inn that is consistently booked out months in advance for the autumn season. It offers simple tatami rooms and hearty communal meals featuring mountain vegetables. *Note: Check 2026 status as worker shortages caused temporary closures in 2025.
• Sounkyo Onsen Village (Logistical Hub): Located 60 minutes away, Sounkyo offers more diverse hotel options and serves as the meeting point for autumn shuttle buses.
• Kamikawa Town Guesthouses: Ideal for budget travelers who want to drive to the forest road entrance early in the morning.
• Tent Sites at Kogen Onsen: A dedicated campground is available for hikers wanting to stay overnight at the trailhead in the most primitive setting.

The Bear Information Center: A Mandatory Wilderness Gateway

A visit to Kogen Onsen is inseparable from the Brown Bear Information Center. Before any hiker can step onto the Numa-meguri trail, they must attend a mandatory 10-minute briefing on bear safety and current sightings. This regulated entry system ensures that humans and bears can share the landscape safely. The center provides real-time updates on which ponds are open and which are restricted due to “higher than usual bear activity”. For many visitors, seeing a bear from a distance under the guidance of center staff is the highlight of their northern adventure.

Walking Guide: The Numa-meguri (Pond Loop)

The **Numa-meguri trail** is a circular 5-hour route that weaves through a highland plateau containing 16 volcanic ponds. The most iconic spots are **Midori-numa** and **Daigaku-numa**, where the reflection of the crimson rowan trees against the cobalt water creates an otherworldly scene in late September. The trail is moderate but requires proper hiking boots, as it involves climbing over large boulders and crossing shallow streams. Eating is only allowed at three designated spots (Midori, Daigaku, and Kogen ponds) to avoid attracting bears.

Local Gastronomy & Souvenirs

The signature dish of the Sanso is “Mountain Bounty Kaiseki,” featuring freshly picked bamboo shoots, fiddleheads, and butterbur from the Daisetsu foothills. Another highlight is the **Hokkaido Venison Stew**, cooked slowly to provide energy for the next day’s climb. For souvenirs, the Bear Information Center sells “Bear Safety Gear” and original **pika (Ezonakiusagi) illustration postcards**, as this is one of the few places in Japan where you can hear the high-pitched whistle of these “living fossils”.

Cultural & Historical Context

For the Ainu people, the Daisetsu range is Kamui Mintara—the Playground of the Gods. Kogen Onsen was seen as a sacred place where the gods’ breath rose from the earth to warm the animals during the harsh winters. Modern development only reached this area in the 1960s with the opening of the forest road, and it remains one of the most strictly protected zones in Hokkaido. The community is dedicated to **Eco-tourism**, prioritizing the health of the bear population and the preservation of the delicate alpine peat bogs over large-scale commercial development.

Practical Travel Tips

Timing: The peak autumn foliage is between Sept 15 and Sept 30. During this time, private cars are banned on the access road; you must park at the “Lakesite” lot and take a shuttle bus. Safety: Never hike alone; stay in groups to alert bears of your presence. Toilets: There are no toilets on the trail; use the facilities at the information center or bring a portable toilet kit for the booth at Midori-numa. Opening Hours: The trail closes strictly at 3:00 PM; you must start your hike before 1:00 PM.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

For the 2026 season, the **Brown Bear Information Center** has introduced an English-language digital briefing available via tablets to accommodate the growing number of international hikers. Additionally, the **Daisetsu Kogen Sanso** has announced a planned management restructuring to address previous staffing shortages, with a goal to fully reopen all 16 rooms for the 2026 autumn peak.

Safety & Manners

Respect the “Bear Rules” above all else: never leave food scraps, never approach a cub, and always follow the directions of the trail rangers. In the onsen, do not use loud voices, as the lodge is designed for quiet recovery. Finally, because the area is within a core conservation zone, do not take any stones, plants, or water from the tarns. By following these local protocols, you help ensure that Kogen Onsen remains a pristine sanctuary for both humans and spirits for generations to come.