Sugano Onsen (菅野温泉)

Sugano Onsen: The “Phantom” Hot Spring Legend with 13 Distinct Mineral Sources

Deep within the rugged mountains of Shikaoi in the Tokachi region, Sugano Onsen stands as a testament to the raw, complex diversity of Hokkaido’s geothermal energy. Recognized as one of the “100 Best Hot Springs in Japan,” this legendary retreat was once feared lost after a period of closure, only to be heroically revived by local enthusiasts. Known for its extraordinary geological rarity, Sugano Onsen boasts 13 independent spring sources within a single location, each with a completely different chemical profile. From the iron-heavy “Akayu” to the silky bicarbonate “Bijin-no-yu,” this is a destination where one can experience a “full-body mineral therapy” session by simply moving from one tub to another. Surrounded by the pristine forests of the Daisetsuzan National Park and overlooking the Shikaribetsu volcanic group, Sugano provides a profound sense of isolation and geological wonder for the true onsen connoisseur.

Key Information

The Healing Waters: A Geological “Mineral Museum” in the Mountains

The scientific profile of Sugano Onsen is unparalleled in Japan. Because the inn sits atop a complex intersection of volcanic fault lines, it accesses thirteen distinct geothermal reservoirs. This variety allows guests to experience three major types of thermal therapy: “Cleaning,” “Coating,” and “Circulating.” The bicarbonate-heavy sources act as a natural detergent to soften the skin, the chloride springs create a mineral salt-pack to prevent heat from escaping, and the iron-rich waters boost blood oxygen levels. The inn adheres to a strict “Gensen Kakenagashi” (100% natural flow) policy, and because many sources are “Artesian” (well up naturally under their own pressure), the water is incredibly rich in carbonic acid and original minerals that have never been exposed to the air before entering the tub.

Top Recommended Stays & Bases

• Kanno Hot Springs Retreat (The Living Legend): The primary destination. After its 2014 revival, it features beautifully renovated wooden interiors and a diverse range of themed baths. It is highly regarded for its quiet atmosphere and lack of cell service, providing a true “digital detox” for its guests.
• Shikaribetsu Kohan Onsen Hotel Fusui (Nearby Base): Located about 20 minutes away by the lake, it serves as a more accessible base for those who want standard resort amenities while taking day-trips to Sugano’s hidden springs.
• Shintoku-area Lodges (Adventure Hub): For those seeking a wider Tokachi experience, staying in nearby Shintoku allows access to Sugano while being close to world-class soba and winter sports facilities.
• Obihiro City Hotels (Logistical Base): Staying in Obihiro provides a convenient 90-minute scenic drive to Sugano, perfect for combining the springs with Tokachi’s urban food culture.
Lake Shikaribetsu Camping (Wilderness Solo): Popular with backpackers and motorcycle travelers during the summer months, allowing for a morning soak at Sugano before heading into the mountains.

Must-Visit Public Baths (Soto-yu)

Sugano is a solitary sanctuary, so the Kanno Hot Springs Retreat acts as the central “Soto-yu.” The facility is divided into two major bathhouses, “Ukan-no-yu” and “Boshon-no-yu,” which are switched between genders daily. For a completely wild experience, the **Shikaribetsukyo Gorge wild springs** are located further into the forest; these are free, natural pools located along the riverbank. Note: Reaching these wild springs requires a 30-minute hike and a high degree of bear awareness—they are for experienced outdoor adventurers only.

Walking Guide & Scenic Spots

Start with the Shikaribetsukyo Nature Trail; the path follows the crystal-clear river and leads to several spectacular viewpoints where you can see the earth venting white smoke. Visit the **Kanno Lookout** for a panoramic view of the Shikaoi plains and the distant Tokachi mountains. In autumn (early October), the entire canyon is set ablaze with vibrant red maples and yellow birch trees. For those interested in industrial heritage, explore the Remains of the Old Forestry Railway, which once transported timber through these mountains during the early 20th century.

Local Gastronomy & Souvenirs

The culinary highlight of the region is Tokachi Naitai Wagyu Beef, known for its extreme tenderness and sweet marbling. The local ryokan focuses on **”Mountain Bounty Kaiseki,”** featuring hand-picked ferns, wild mushrooms, and deer meat (venison) harvested through sustainable hunting practices. For souvenirs, look for **Onsen Sinter Salts** (mineral deposits) harvested from Sugano’s unique wells and local **White Flowering Bean (Shirohanamame)** sweets. The nearby Roadside Station “Urimaku” also sells world-class fresh produce and dairy products.

Cultural & Historical Context

The name “Sugano” comes from the pioneer family that first developed the springs in 1911. Historically, the Ainu utilized these waters, calling the area Nupur-pet (River with Deep Color), believing that the diverse colored waters were a sign of the mountain spirits’ power. The area’s identity is defined by its **Resilient Spirit**; the community fought to keep the springs open through economic downturns and volcanic alerts. Today, it is a model of **Boutique Ecotourism**, focusing on preserving the rare Northern Pika and the delicate alpine ecosystem of the Daisetsuzan foothills.

Practical Travel Tips

Transportation: A car is essential. There are no gas stations near the onsen; ensure you have a full tank before leaving central Shikaoi. Connectivity: Most of the Sugano area is a **Mobile Dead Zone**. While the inn provides limited Wi-Fi for guests, be prepared for zero signal on the mountain trails. Clothing: Even in summer, the mountains are cool; always bring a medium-weight jacket. Tattoos: Sugano is relatively traditional; guests with large tattoos should consider booking a room for overnight use or checking the policy at the front desk before entering communal baths.

2025-2026 Latest Updates

In early 2026, Sugano Onsen will debut its new **”Geothermal Education Program,”** offering guided tours that explain the chemical diversity of the 13 sources for international science enthusiasts. Additionally, the **Shikaribetsukyo Winter Snowshoe Course** will be expanded for the 2025-2026 season, providing better markers and a safer route for viewing the “Diamond Dust” phenomenon near the springs.

Safety & Manners

In the onsen, always rinse thoroughly before entering the water and never put your towel in the tub. When using the wild riverside baths, always carry a **bear bell** and stay alert, as this is active brown bear territory. Please pack out all trash to protect the national park’s water quality. Finally, remember that Sugano is a quiet sanctuary; please maintain a respectful, soft tone in all common areas and near the bathhouses.